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where?

can you upload a picture of it?

I've came across this before, here's what you have to do...... get a tool that fits the small screw/metal thing and unscrew it.

you would be better finding out the name of the profile used in your existing windows i.e. rehau, veka, profile 22, spectus etc (it should be printed somewhere inside a frame) then you can find a local supplier of that profile. This way you will get a match.

try door-stop for composite door

No reason why, I always remove the hardwood surround when fitting new pvc windows, when you take out the aluminium frame you'll likely see the screws fixing the hardwood to whatever is behind it, possibly dwangs wedged in the cavity if there is one. Either use fixing clips or use the same wedged...

If the hinges are still closing tightly at the top of the frame you don't need new ones, all you need to do is unscrew the hinges from the frame and move the screws down the sash by a few mm (usually just enough to get another screw fixing in by the existing holes) Some of the screws will be...

Sounds like needs the hinges replaced, a pic would confirm

You will get one for about a tenner, and is very easy to change http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=munITgP3D-8

swap the cylinder with the one in a back or side door - (if you have one) that will tell you if it's the cylinder that needs replacing, which is good. Rather than the mechanism, which is bad.

you could do either - drill out the plastic so the shootbolts reach their required travel - or the other option is to remove the screws where the shootbolts attach to the centre mechanism, you will probably be able to slide back or rotate a small retaining plate that laps over from the shootbolt...

Can you upload an image of it ?

You'll need to know the upvc profile type so the guide fits into the channel,If your windows are rehau i can post you some out - if the windows are packed properly you don't need these anyway, are they hitting at the bottom when you close them ?

ahem......open the window? have the sash in the secondary locking position for one.I don't see why this is not acceptable for planning,and after all, if somone has a go with a jemmy bar having the sash fully locked ain't going to be any more secure,and it will mean the low e glass is being more...

This may vary between local authorities - i know people that have had to drill a series of holes through steel reinforced sashes in all their windows because they were flagged up when they were selling the house. I don't like vents myself - it's a ridiculous piece of legislation to say you need...

With your door it sounds like the spindle (the square shaped bar that moves the mechanism when you turn the handle) has worn, or more likely the square hole in the handle has worn. A new handle should sort you out :D As far as your window goes, sounds like you have shootbolt locking system...

The only reason why a company would want to make all windows externally glazed is because they do not have to invest in a seperate reverse-butt welder to make them....... They are cheaper to make!!

They are probably fitted with either security tape (you'll notice foam strip instead of rubber seal inside the window) or "wedge" gasketed in so that the beads cannot be removed without the wedge being removed first from the inside. I have changed a few units mind you when the beads have popped...

Absolute rubbish. You should get at least a 5 year guarantee with new units. As for the frames, if they are drained properly it won't matter how "leaky" they are (and if there is a drainage problem this can easily be fixed without having to get new frames.) Kick the company into touch.

Profile 22 is a pretty good profile, but you could well save yourself some money by getting quotes off smaller companies, who don't employ salesmen.