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For rigor we need to know the make/model of dryer, height of release above the water, angle of release, where is the socket for the dryer to be plugged into, is it switched on and probably 100 other things

But beware the BCO cost can be a lot more than getting in an electrician who can self certify the work and the advice from the BCO may not be the best as they can't be a qualified electrician/plumber/gas fitter/structural engineer/roofer etc and you'll need to provide in a lot of detail what...

Don't forget your home insurance may not cover you should your house burn down due to you having a 10kw shower on <1mm bell wire etc so get someone in to give some advice and the main thing will be that they can tell you what to do and how to do it and so long as you don't plaster over the...

Don't connect it to the copper pipework, best bet is to get some new cable of the same size and then a maintenance free junction box of the correct rating and use it to join the old and new wiring together or if that all sounds too much just get in a qualified elecy

The cable has to come from somewhere and its probably not going to be a nice choice of surface mounted trunking or a lot more serious and invasive cabling, given we haven't seen the kitchen personally or even via a photo to know if there are options and more importantly what the lady of the...

I'd only have the cooker on a cooker circuit as who'd expect it to run a washing machine, but you could probably pull back the washing machine cable and use to to power the oven but it would probably not be as neat as having it just next door to the hobs socket and get a dedicated spur off the...

Make sure theres room to put the socket in as it can be a real pain trying to put a socket in a tiled kitchen as it'll probably have to be sunk into the wall so the cooker will fit properly

and if you drop a screw you won't accidentally create a possible short but its more a theoretical risk generally as the chance is quite low but better safe than sorryas it could have possible live current running around it even when switched off but with each make/model of lappy different its...

i've got one of those lights and i hate it as theres 3 screws holding on the glass and you need to carefully remove 2 and have the 3rd half undone to safefly remove/put in the glass and if you don't like spiders then its a no no as it seems like it becomes a spider magnet/graveyard very quickly

When i've ran cat5/6 for people in their homes i'm amazed by what I find under the floor and i've probably created enough work for electricians to keep a few in beer for a year when you pull up the floorboard and find the socket is spur'd from a double thats done in 1.5mm using iron leads...

When I worked for a Uni and used to visit the student digs to sort out access to the Uni's network I was always amazed when I could see 6-8 inches of travel adapters coming out of one socket especially when there was alot of foreign students as they'd all have their things connected 24x7 so...

I always plan for the worst and that for me would be getting to the workshop in a freezing morning so needing to heat the room up while having a brew on the go with the lights on while perhaps using a power tool or 2 obviously that includes the essentials of any workshop aka tv/radio and a...

I'd add in for a small water heater so you can get a sink put in to wash your hands and also for making cups of tea/coffee so think about piping that in and out as well to save on the digger hire/back ache along with perhaps phone/network points as well

perhaps take the cover off the fuseboard and take a photo of the board as it maybe that they've just popped it in with something else like the cooker and it may be a quick 2 sec job to pull it out of the board

It'll be quicker and safer just to start chasing the wire by pulling up carpets/boards as you'll be able to follow it, just turn off the power and try not to pull too hard on the cables as you don't want to disturb stuff thats not been screwed down properly and cause even more trouble and it...

Personally i'd check the CU to see if theres any melting near the shower breaker and then get into the void above the shower switch and make sure that everythings connected properly and nothings melted etc then chase the cable to the shower and make sure everythings happy (tm) then check the...

Perhaps just turn it into a standard single socket, just disconnect the lamp wire and pull it out then just slap on a single socket and job done and probably in a few years you'll need all the sockets you can get when he wants to run 100 electrical items

if you are lucky then the old cabling has been trunked down to the switches whitch "may" give you chance to pull new cable down without having to chisel out the old stuff so while your electrician may need to pull up carpets/floorboards to renew the lighting circuit you wont have to replaster...

I'd look at the initial power draw on the resumption of the supply to your gear as some ups's can draw a good bit more than they say when the powers restored especially if they have to try and recharge their batteries and provide for a lot of kit drawing extra power as it kicks in.

personally i'd get a switchfuse fitted between the meter and the initial CU so you can disconnect everything your side physically and see if the meter still counts up and if so you'll be able to prove it and get the bill reduced