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sounds like your flueways (ventilation side) isn't bring enough frsh air into the boiler if it only opens when the case is off whic is very dangerous

seems like you're getting air drawn in often - any union nuts not quite fully tight ??

is there 2 of these, one either side of the pump?

I don't know much about oil fired boilers but where your pump is, is there a valve closely fitted after it?

has this problem just started or been there all the time? so the boiler fires up for hot water but until you vent the air vent the cylinder doesn't heat up?

have you got gravity hot water? if it's just started happening, and there's no diverter valves, could be an anti gravity valve passing -

Agile is right - thermocouple's can always fluctuate when they are starting to fail - but you need to check the mVoltage at the GV end

if the heating is on, then the water will expand a little from the cold feed pipe into the header tank (due to expansion) - if you removing the tank with the heating on you'll get a bit of trouble. Best to really give system a flush and fill up from fresh with new inhibitor

could be a few things - all gas related though try holding the button in for a longer periold and releasing the button very very slowly

you do know that if you have just hot water on, then the burner will cycle on and off quite quickly and quite often? have you got a cylinder thermostat or any motorised valves in your system?

what type of leak fix did you use Axel?

Rob - if the (main burner) solenoid in thr gas valve is OC as you suggested (and me too) - how do you explain that the burner comes on/boiler fires up for 3-4 minutes at a time before going out...... very strange! that's why pump etc were mentioned and need to be tested

that was because the engineer who looked at the system suggested no water in system - so I was going on that info - that's why I said let's start again It's not easy going on what people say on here - you;r ebetter off starting from scratch and testing parts yourself - original posters...

I didn't suggest cold feed Without seeing it it's strange, you need to check/test parts With power to gas valve and gas valve not opening test resistance of coil

I suggested gas valve fault hours ago - check resistance of gas valve

Yeah not too far from Ealing - Mill Hill's a bit firther North I've got a couple of dvds - about learning to use a multimeter I just did a lot myself :)

could be a rectification fault ...... could be gas valve, pcb, pump..... sounds strange if pilot goes out too - suspect recitification problem - i think your boiler uses same probe for ignition and rectification - may be dirty, out of position, bent under flame a bit, burner dirty...

good point - I've re-charged 4 and drained about 10 litres after the gauge was on 0 - and all was good - just wondered what ways everyone else did it

ok lwt;s start again from scratch put h/w or htg on and does the boiler fire up? ..... if so, does it go off again shortly after? if so... does the pilot stay on or go out too?

maybe it's the same then :) It's quite good. Have you got any fault finding dvds? I'm from near Northolt if you've heard of that? I'll find out when the next dates are hopefully shortly!