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That had crossed my mind that's why I stated it could be a different backing problem , they may have dabbed a board over the sooted chimney area to make it easier to plaster but without being there this is a tough one, good call

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Dry dashed ? , from the photos it looks like Tyrolean , this is flicked on rubbed render using a Tyrolean gun. the patches may be due to the render still being too green before the coating was applied, get the builder out to remedy it with a coat of paint, me personally if I was to have an...

This is a bit of a toughie without actually being there, I doubt there is a structural issue but I suspect that it may be an issue with the backing wall , it's hard to say , I have some cracks in my home that appear occasionally, and it is down to the electric conduit not adhering with the...

Stop digging, you clearly have some DIY knowledge, but that's it, leave this to the professionals , = "A little test for you: how would you install the ashlar?" = there is nothing hard and fast about rendered ashlar, it is just a sieved sand and cement external render rubbed flat with artificial...

Poster #12 I disagree that my advice is wrong , it is funny that I viewed yours as wrong and over the top, there is no way you can tell by looking at the photo that the render has failed , you have to physically examine it , there are a few parts around the windows that have been repaired in...

As already stated, some pictures would help, Are the cracks above a window? is it an old house? any additional information will help us help you

I don't think you need to hack off the external ashlar render as it looks as though it is only the masonry paint that has blistered , find a broken roof tile and run the rough side over the rendered wall to see if it sounds hollow, if so its failed ,if it sounds solid then it has not failed, you...

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Let's hope not, in the photo it looks solid, mind you IMHO Bonding is a bad choice of material for a bathroom or anywhere there is a chance of damp/moisture or leakages, there are materials on the market that can withstand water contact , good old sand and cement with a waterproofer added is...

It should dry a bit lighter but I expect it to still show a watermark , it should paint over without issues, the worry with carlites like Bonding is it can rot if it is subject to damp/water over a long period, but if it is still solid and not blown away from the wall it should all be good

Hi, plasters call them trowels, not floats, if the trowel (float) you own suits you and does a good job in your hands then that is all you need, all plasterers use their finishing trowel when they first get one as a rendering trowel to break it in (or rub it on a kerb edge in wet sand) and the...

In my experience , Scottish rough cast (exterior walls) is granite chippings and neat cement cast layer over layer (scudding) and that sets like bell metal, that type of surface takes a lot to make it crack, look further into it is my advice

Hi there should be two or three courses of engineered bricks, (blue bricks) , you say you don't have damp problems, if it ain't broken, don't fix it,

When you say external walls, are you talking about the whole side of a house? If you are rendering a large area and have to stop, it is advisable to cut the render in a tapered zigzag line when you leave it, so you can blend it in easier when you return, you squeeze/cut the render at a tapered...

Fibre tape (sticky mesh) all the way,

That is truly shocking work, that builder should take his tools and throw them in the nearest river, it looks as though he hasn't really tried to leave a nice finish, people like him give the trade a bad name, I would seek advice from a local plasterer to see if an over skim would put it right...

Hi, the fuzzy stuff was probably salts and nothing to worry about, the plaster should dry out quickly if you allow plenty of air flow to allow the moisture to leave , now drying time depends on the plaster backing, if it's plaster board or sand and cement they will dry out reasonably quickly, if...

Hi, I see in your post that you were considering boarding the wall, there are thermal plus plaster boards on the market that can be dabbed onto the wall , these boards help keep the cold and damp out, however you must address your damp problem, you need to check if there is a damp course along...

I did my bedroom a few years ago after taking the previous owner's wallpaper off and the skim just shelled off in large patches , there were large cracks where the electrical conduit was and where there had been a bit of movement, I scraped all the loose plaster skim off and PVA'd the whole wall...