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I am intending to build an extension on top of an existing flat roof which means the existing roof joists will become the new floor joists. The joists are 150 x 50 at 400 ccs with a 2 metre span. Will these be adequate as floor joists or do I need to think about beefing them up? Thanks for...

Ah 'the good old days' So much better than 'tiles to be nailed and clipped in an alternate diagonal pattern'

First impressions of your roof is that it has been done by a neat, competent tiler. I think that the degree of risk of the roof leaking has to be put into context. Marley recommend a minimum pitch of 22.5 at 100mm headlap - they therefore consider that the tiles won't leak in normal (whatever...

Are the leaks at the top or the bottom of the windows? If they are leaking at the bottom, check that water can flow freely off of the 'corrugated' lead flashing; quite often when used with profiled tiles the water gets caught in a trough and flows off sideways.

HMK did you notice the link? http://www.britishlead.co.uk/downloads/tpren_data.pdf

No need ...... http://www.britishlead.co.uk/downloads/tpren_data.pdf

Taken from the BLM link:- 'The reliability of T-Pren has been proven by over 30 years of use without recorded failure. ' I have been personally using T-Pren for over 20 years with no comebacks. No manufacturer offers an 'end of life' guarantee

When lead is laid in oversized lengths or bays, failure (cracking) occurs because of metal fatique. If the lead is in a sunny, exposed situation then this failure is much more likely to happen than in a shady, sheltered situation. But there is no way that you can lay lead in a continuous 5...

The best way is to use lead with expansion joints http://www.britishlead.co.uk/t-pren-expansion-joints.htm

Steve was talking about the gap between the new and old tiles. If that is tight you don't have to fill the 'wedge shaped gap' underneath

I agree My guess is 500 x 250 (20" x 10")

If you are going to cut the tiles do it on the right hand verge - less chance of them coming off

16 tiles would come to 3200 but you could get about 3mm shunt on each and if you left the left hand water bar on you may get a total of about 75mm which is 37mm on each end which wouldn't be too sad. Best way is to lay out the tiles and see how much you can 'stretch' them.

The 20/20 is ideally suited. Stop worrying and make a commitment! You will be happy with the end result.

They're fine if you don't mind your roof looking like a council estate pram shelter. Stick with the 20/20 it's a good product

Just thought it was worth bumping

Look here at the images next to the headings 'centre pivot', 'smoke vent' and 'accessories' http://www.velux.co.uk/private/products/velux_roof_windows See how the opening is formed

A much nicer finish is possible if instead of the trimmers being installed at right angles to the rafters they are put in horizontally at the top and vertically at the bottom giving a splayed appearance. It's a bit difficult to explain but if you look carefully at a lot of the pictures in the...

Is the leak at the top or bottom of the Velux? Have you got any pictures of how the front flashing has been installed/dressed?

Looking closely at the front apron of the LH window it would seem that an additional strip of lead has been tucked under the Velux flashing; If I was a betting man I would bet a week's wages it is leaking.