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Namsag wrote : Namsag, i'm not nitpicking here but a sleeve should only be sealed on one side (i.e. sealant, denzo etc) so how would this contain gas ? Not having a go here just wondering if i had the wrong idea.

We use either :roll: Never had any comebacks or complaints

The new gas pipe will be inside a larger diameter sleeve as it enters the house (perfectly correct) and its a 15mm connection to the boiler so it sounds fine.

Told my apprentice the best way to get denzo gunge off your hands is to use polypipe solvent cement :lol: :lol: :lol: He's not talking to me now :shock: No sense of humour these young'uns

I have a pine hi-fi cabinet which is waxed and varnished, i want to strip it down to bare wood and have taken off the stain with stripper but when i try to sand it the wax just blocks up the sandpaper (a coarse sheet lasts about 10 seconds then its smooth) is there any tips to overcome this or...

As clf-gas has said you will need a manifold with temperature regulator (max temp about 25 degrees or the floor will crack/warp)

Isolate water to outside tap, take off tap head undo guts and free the washer that will be stuck (ie come off end of spindle) Turn it over or fit a new one then replace.

You could fit a non return valve on the hot near the mixer valve, this would stop your tank overflowing, but you may need a pressure reducing valve on the cold to equalize the supply pressures for the shower to work properly. May be just as cheap getting the shower fixed.

In a word - No. Is there no way of taking the waste straight outside and into a hopper ?

Push it in about 2", measure from floor to centre of pan connector then measure from floor to the centre of toilet spiggot, cut this difference off the end that goes into cast socket

Is there no chance of welding the area thats leaking ? (Drain it down first ) :lol: :lol: :lol:

If the stacks are connected together you need at least one of them to vent to the outside, a dirgo valve only allows air admittance, not venting of smells etc. If the stacks are not connected they all need terminating to the outside.

Screw the tails into the taps, fit into hole in the basin then you can gently pull the tails apart enough to get two compression connectors on (or pushfit if you prefer)

Try closing both valves, disconnect them from the rad and open both into a bucket to flush the air out and to make sure both valves are opening properly.

If you have a mixer tap put the palm of your hand over the end of the tap, open the hot first then the cold slowly, do this for 30 second bursts then close both taps then open the hot. Does this solve the problem ?

I've had this problem before on my own boiler, changed diaphragm washer made no difference (cheapest option) then after some head scratching manually pressed down micro-switch (looked as if it was working) and hey presto it worked, as it was 9 pm temporarily bent micro-switch down a bit, that...

You can get an 11" or a 17" wide rad at different heights (sorry too drunk to work it out in metric) hic !!!

Turn off your heating, pump etc start bleeding the lowest radiator first and work up to the highest rad then the vents. This will get most of the air out. Bleed again in a few days, if you've used a good inhibitor all should be ok.

They are at the highest point (or should be !!!) and you dont know how much air is trapped, go on try it its not that big a deal, if their stiff i use pump pliers (not being patronising but remember its anti-clockwise and you only need about half a turn)

You NEED to open these to remove the air in these pipes first or it could just circulate around your system and cause other problems