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There is only a shower in this bathroom, no bath, and removing moisture when it is being used is the primary reason for running the fan, odour control being the other less common need. I will have a look at other means of triggering the fan automatically when the shower is used, e.g. flow or...

I thought electricians were loathe to put wall switches in bathrooms despite the permission in the regs. I don't follow you re the humidistat fan, but I don't know much about them. I couldn't leave it on all the time or switched on with the light but it would only start if it was damp enough?

A waterproof switch? Is it in the right zone/far enough away from the shower which is on the other side of that stud wall.

It could be a wall switch but it could be a bit confusing for visitors as to which switch was which. Not a huge issue I guess they'd work it out pretty quick. If I do use the hole saw i might need to get a longer pilot. Not necessarily but my preference is to have them come on separately to...

There's already a switch just outside the bathroom, right were you'd expect the bathroom one to be. (No switch in the house operates the nearest light either but that's another story).

Well, sawing is complicated by the presence of the ceiling so it might have to knife or chisel. If the hole saw can be held steady and firm it could make a good job of it I think but only cutting on one side into a curved surface is not ideal and getting in a hilti dd 350 is probably overkill.

OK, I was thinking more of a fine toothed saw but maybe that would work.

Thanks. It seems a shoddy job to me leaving a cord to hang in the line of an opening door but I suppose we can find a common ground in thinking our own opinion smells of roses. Now, so I can decide if it's worth the hassle or not, if I did decide to recess it how would I cut the coving, will a...

Here's a picture

There looks to me to be enough wire tucked inside the switch to move them over 50mm so I think it was simply to avoid cutting the coving. So, either a misguided aesthetic decision or pure laziness on the part of the builder/electrician but they're not around to ask as the house was built in...

You mean I shouldn't assume it was laziness?

Too easy! Yes, the obvious alternative to moving the switches is to use a better guide as a more robust version of the plastic clips. Still looks like a bit of bodge to me TBH.

In our downstairs bathroom the pull switches for the light and extractor fan are set out from the wall around 90 to 100mm due to the width of the plaster coving. This mean that the pulls hit the door unless hooked behind little plastic clips on the wall. I thought it would be a neater job if...

I'm not sure, the house is only 2005 and I would guess that the system is all original to that date from the age of the boiler and tank and the lack of any visible modifications to the system and so it has always been a S-plan system. It is possible that the wiring centre was either re-used...

I do not. I inherited it from the previous owners.

That is how it is labelled on the wiring centre. I thought the backslash meant "or"?

I never said whether it was two or three port so I cannot be mixed up between the two ;) I don't know, maybe you can tell from the picture. No HW off in the tado wiring diagram.

You're quite right, I have described it wrong. The wire goes to the valve. But I think you're not correct about needing a HW off.

It's getting live from the programmer output via the additional terminal block. Similarly the other output from the programmer is connected to the boiler wire in the same way, again bypassing the wiring centre. There doesn't seem any good reason for it. I could just connect those wires to the...

So, L1 connects C on the cylinder stat terminals to 1 on the room stat. Nothing is connected to C so didn't matter if L1 is cut or joined.