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No one knows.

Here's a better picture of the terminal block. It connects wires 3 and 4 coming from the programmer (tado extension in this case) to wires going to the HW/mid plan valve and the hot water cylinder thermostat. I don't understand why these wires bypass the wiring centre rather than being...

Hi, while fitting a new tado thermostat I have damaged my honeywell sundial wiring centre. Therefore I am replacing it with a new one (same model) with the intention to swap over all the connections. I am puzzled by two things. One is that link L1 has been soldered despite the instructions...

What a mess the builders have left.

It reads to be as 100mm polystyrene is sufficient. Spend the savings on upgrading to plywood flooring. What function would the reversed breather membrane serve on the floor? Remember to put a damp proof layer between the blocks and the wooden base

From what you could see, you've no comment? That must be a first ;)

The crack is quite clear in the photos, the blurred lighter beams in the foreground are not the ones in the question.

Looks like the type of splitting that is very common on old beams. I'd not be concerned but just a humble diyer and not an SE.

Let's see a picture of the split. Is there any evidence of a problem (sagging) or are you thinking better safe than sorry? Is there any sign it is progressing and getting worse Lots of old beams have splits in them and are still plenty strong enough

Epoxy, especially thinned, is a fine penetrating sealer but relatively expensive and will degrade if exposed to UV. PVA very cheap not much good as a sealer. Exterior wood sealers are another option or you could use exterior paint or varnish on the edges if you have some spare.

I suppose I have kind of implied that the factory edges may be sealed but really I am not sure if they are or not. I'm certain that the edges you cut yourself won't be though. Seal all the edges if you have the time. Never heard of anyone taping the joints unless they're building a boat :) But...

I have been struggling with a similar ply question although for a shed floor rather than a roof. I think the standards that now apply are en636 which covers the wood for the Plies used and en317 which covers the glue. For each of those there are 3 levels, 1 being interior, 2 for humid...

Yeah, my joists are much smaller so I'm making up for it with thicker plywood which is the most expensive bit. I might yet use larger timbers as joists or at least put the 38x63 or 75mm pieces upright.

That's an interesting way of doing it. What was the span and did you have any supports or did the boards span the full width? Must work out fairly expensive compared to a sheet and joist?

No sir, I am not replacing like for like for a number of reasons, some of which I've outlined already - it didn't look like a particularly good job so why would I replicate it? :) Since I have a blank canvas what I would like to know is how to fit the floor well, with the appropriate materials...

I'm replacing a rotten shed floor. The 3x3m shed was built on the floor, so I jacked up the walls removed the rotten edge 38x38mm bearers and OSB, laid 38x70mm treated timber on blocks with DPC in between, and lowered the walls down again. The whole shed is built on a concrete slab. My...

Seal the garage from drafts.

I think 18mm is "standard", suggested by kingspan for a floating floor over insulation but it's hard to see if/why 15mm ply wouldn't do instead. It's not like you're spanning joists, it's continuously supported by the insulation. Maybe you could fit 15 or 20mm insulation board instead of 25mm...

I agree. What is the area? Is the slab dead flat? What's wrong with a nice bit of ply to allow you to minimize the wood and maximize the insulation thickness?

Dunno about the practicalities of getting it in but would agree that some is better than none. Especially if it is providing a break from a big slab of cold concrete. Might you need floor rated insulation board?