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the top of the sink is irregular.. if i put it on 9mm ply it would hit the quartz.. plus now i have the door on ans the facia panel its not going to be 6mm more like 4 or 5mm.

I have installed a belfast sink on a unit.. the unit lines up with existing units. trouble is the belfast is about 9mm lower than where the worktop is going to go.. the fitter said he could fill the 9mm gap with silicon but i said i would raise it.. would using 6mm plastic shims all way around...

all done. Cheers everyone.

thanks. that's really helpful.

ah right! so does normal 40mm pipe work with compression fittings? I thought you had to use a special compression pipe. also - the first 90 degree bend you refer to.. should i use one of my pushfit 90's? and if so why not use one for the connection to the house waste outlet?

would this work..

ok what about this? waste going out of my house.. to the push fit end of this conversion bend.. http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-conversion-bend-white-90-40mm/79721 then conversion bend male to flexible adapter female end...

ah wait.. I already have one of those - I just need a compression to push fit adapter - maybe a flexible one.. I'll keep browsing.

ooh what about one of these.. then for the connection to the existing waste I have a few 90 degree push fits elbows and some 40mm pipe.. would that do the job? http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sink-washing-machine-trap-white-40mm/12794#_=p

yes that's correct. that's kind of what I am asking.. I have been browsing screwfix site and cant find what I need to do the job.. there's also a dishwasher waste there to consider as well.

hI all.. just changed my sink to a Belfast so need to replace a section with a 90 degrees or cap it off. and also move the whole waste to the left 150mm and up 130mm... there has to be an easier way....

i'm going to fit a bit more insulation under the first 6 inch or so of the existing floor to raise 4mm and then let the other floor bend down to meet it over a distance (I should have a good 300-400 mm to play with) then use a straight threshold strip with the 10mm gap... insulation foamed into...

The only problem with that is I would have to rip up the engineered floor in my dining room to raise it 10 mil and being an engineered floor that is glued together it will be quite destructive. I'm not overly bothered about the ten Mill height difference more concerned about what to do with the...

I have just broken through from my dining room to my sun room extension. Both the new and existing floors are concrete slabs, the wall that we removed was a brick and block cavity with an 80mm cavity. The floor in the dining room is engineered oak, as it will be in the sun room.So at the floor...

yes I am going to foil tape over the panels, I will cut back the expanding foam flush and tape it to death!

would it matter if the gap was completely filled? or does this section also need the same 50mm air gap above it.

ok i'll seal it tight... one question. where the last rafter is close to the wall there is a 50mm gap - what should i do here? try squeeze a sliver in? or use some expanding gap filler.. or something else?

its already passed BCO inspection.

i am going to.. they are at 400 centres, 1 next to the velux is 350 centre.. the joists are 45x195 and the ridge is 12"x3" - its going nowhere.

So I should fill every tiny gap and use some foil tape to make the whole underside of the insulation air tight