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Oh and yes we are very new to this system. Didn't have a clue what it was when we moved in a year ago as came from a combi. The boiler has been solid to be fair and would be tempted to replace with a similar system just newer next year. As for costs yes during winter months it's been quite a lot...

Sorry I should rephrase - the heating requires rad water to go through the thermal store to heat it up, so it needs to be on or at least warm enough. So in theory yes we could have the heating on without the hot water on but it prob won't stay warm for very long as it uses the heat from the...

I'm not sure. The boiler fires up to heat the cylinder (thermal store) and I thought to keep it at a certain temp which is set at the boiler The room stat calls for more heat which switches on the heating pump and circulates water (which then gets heated as it passes through the thermal store...

I've only noticed it with the heating on as that's then the water is on for long periods of time

Thanks for this, very detailed info. The stat seems to be screwed on and against the copper, it seems solid but not sure what else I can check without unscrewing it off. As for the temp, how do I find this? Is there a way to open the plastic housing and does it contain a gauge? The only setting...

does anyone know how long hot water should stay hot in the cylinder for? I am trying to set the programmer up in a more energy efficient way. Currently we always have the hot water on constantly when the heating is on, but I suspect this is a waste of gas and we could prob reduce it down. Only 2...

I follow this motto in work most days

well the right valve (inlet) wont budge, so that's a good start. The left one does move but I'm worried about turning it haha

Hmm both had domed plastic pull caps fitted to them. God knows which is for balance.. I would presume the outlet but..

Yes and the flow is on the right for this rad. You said to try adjusting both sides but I don't think messing with the lock shield is a good idea here

The left is the lockshield valve isnt it? adjusting that could mess with the balancing of the system. I may just try opening the inlet a but more with pliers

The left is the lockshield valve isnt it? adjusting that could mess with the balancing of the system. I may just try opening the inlet a but more with pliers

Quite - but it's the rad that heats up the room. The hallway is colder which is why Ive been looking into this

Not TRVs they are all manual valves around the house. Pretty sure all are at least 3/4 open. There are 2 without adjustable knobs - one of the lounge rads and this one in the hallway. Unless of course, the heads have been removed in the past.. It's just the hallway rad that isn't getting as warm...

I'll keep it very simple. The hallway rad isnt as warm as all other rads in the house. We want to fix that

No but I'm happy to lower the temp of the spare room if it means the hallway rad receives that extra heat

Yeah the logic makes sense. But yeah would definitely like to get it warmer as the whole house temp is controlled from this room The fact that the inlet pipe feels warmer (when on) than the rest of the rad.. could that also be balancing related? Happy to lower the upstairs spare room if it...

Hi We are trying to optimise our older (1995 ideal classic) heat only system as the temps are dipping before getting a new system next year. Have noticed that the radiator in our hall way is not as hot as others around the house. This is where the thermostat is located, so would really like to...

since fitting the digital stat, I've noticed that with the heating off (and water because it's a heat only system), the stat clicks on to call for heat (which i get) but then it clicks off and on during the day which seems a little strange. Would expect it to stay on open and heating until the...

ah okay. No idea! If i fiddle with it, or even disconnect it, I can imagine knowing my luck, we'll lose the system and I'll be upgrading a lot sooner than we budgeted for