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Keep the arch in place,cut off the window below and add a 3mm jointing bar to the arch. You will probably have to take the whole window out and cut off the frame square so it will take a jointing bar. You will have to check for drainage holes and make one if the frame is not face...

I was referring to the cill outside,the one the window sits on...that's where the water is coming in.

The foam will need to go where the window sits on the cill,so you would need to make a small hole in the rendering and try to get the foam to seal the end of the cill as this is where the water is tracking off the end of the cill and then around the inside of the wall. Even if the window cill...

Water is probably running under the cill and around the edge ...I always put a bead of silicone on the edge of cills ,so the water could only run back out the front again. Not sure how you can stop the water tracking under the cill and around the frame,without taking the window out.....Maybe...

http://www.diynot.com/forums/windows-doors/diy-sash-window-renovation.295195/ have a look at this thread...There is a link to my facebook page,so you can have a look at what can be achieved with a little tlc :-)

As you have gone from 3 to 6mm glass,then I would buy new weights as its not really ideal to use make weights. For your small window I would say 3.5kg would be fine...try scrap metal yard for weights as they will be loads cheaper...even if they don't have the correct size,you could always cut...

You can putty while in place,but much,much easier to do on a bench,flat..... If your old glass was 3mm and you replaced with 4mm then you have gained 25% weight... You don't have to buy new weights,you can buy lead make weights ,which will work out alot cheaper than buying whole new weights...

www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.267151133331520.64818.120303548016280&type=3 Updated a few photos,so you can see the before and after on a cill repair.

True Woody..but you wouldn't use a hacksaw to cut 4'x2' Just trying to save the guys drill from burning out. If you still want to use your Hitachi,then do what Woody said,but I would try and break off the masonry inside as this will save a bit of friction on the cutter.

It's not your drill bit....It's the drill. Most SDS are designed to drill 20/22mm max in masonry...you are trying to do 65mm. Right tool for the right job...hire the right drill before you burn out your nice shiny new drill :-)

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.267151133331520.64818.120303548016280&type=3&saved A few photos before and after...will take a few more today of the cill when its been repaired.

Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:22 pm Post Subject: I'm at a loose end with this. They all seam to be the other way round to mine. What do you mean exactly? A:- The link alarm showed you has the handles that would fit on a door that opens on the right hand side,if you were looking at the...

If its twisted,it will be a new hinge...once you close the window and the hinge buckles slightly,it's knackered. It is possible to take window out from inside,but easier and safer to have two people do it. Take top screws out first,then bottom ones,leave the middle screw till last either...

Yeah once I posted I looked and though balls ,I know what you meant...been a long day today. I always used caulk to stick trims on,and super glue where the trim hits the window...they won't fall off again :-) If you do use super glue,don't get one that's to runny...Try cutting a small...

Use packers under the cill...plastic ones are fine. If its half inch shorter than the old cill,then it would probably be best to add a small timber to the front edge of the new cill...something like 35x15 then you can use foam under the cill and add the extra timber afterwards. If you...

If you are replacing with similar 28mm upvc strips....why are you painting them ????

Only ever fitted 2 different types(1 for steel pole 1 for ali) principal was the same ...only thing different was the diameter of the pole,so you would need to get the jacking kit to fit the pole. There are probably lots of different types of jacking kit,but it's been 10 years or more since...

Never used a solid pole before...even in a load bearing situation. Most companies would use the same pole,but for load bearing you need to have a whole in the cill and a metal plate that the pole sits on same for the top.The plate should be sat on the wall under the cill. You should have a...

Looking good...I usually trim off the extra putty on the inside after pinning the glass in....then you can see what line you need when smoothing the outside. Been taking some photos for you.will post them up tomorrow,as it's been a long day today

PAINT,STAIN OR VARNISH :-)