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Yes, I'm sorted now, CEF didn't have anything so I mounted another square patress and wired up behind a blanking plate. As I said no ceiling access and no space so it had to be done on the ceiling, not ideal but at least it's sorted, cheers, Btw, there was no wiring for the extractor so...

Yes, no access to behind to do any wiring behind the scenes.

Hi, I'm wiring a bathroom light and a fan isołator from a standard bathroom pull switch. My problem is I can't find a deep enough circular patress to contain the wiring to the light and the extractor fan, ie the terminal blocks for neutral and earth. Does anyone know when I can get a...

I think you can ask for who owned it on a particular date, but not get a list of owners. http://www.landregistry.gov.uk/public/faqs/how-do-i-find-out-who-owned-a-piece-of-land-or-property-in-the-past

No I was referring to the life of the beam in a cold and wet environment.

I would say 1000 is a fair price for a bathroom, fit, tile, connect, finish inc all parts exc tiles and suite. Any other stuff ie stripping, plastering, ceilings would be extra, and increase by the persons involved daily rate.

If you can get access (which is sounds like you can't), then you can scrub it with a wire brush. Wear goggles is imperative. Then you can repaint with red oxide. Take a picture you can show for when you sell on the house. Typical life is at least 60 years if left outside in the cold and the rain..

But all your surveyor with say is 'you need another survey from an expert'..

Bump. If I'm concerned this is wet, what initial investigative steps would you take? Have I got any options to waterproof the floor? TIA.

I've been working in a downstairs room and took this pic. Does it look like anything is odd here? I put a hydrometer on the floor above the line and it reads 80%. It's an outside wall but I don't think there is any pipes underneath, could this be wet? Or is it just marks on the concrete...

Similar issues here. Since fitting a salus, often the CH will not come on in the AM and the boiler needs to be reset. Also it takes a long time to get to temperàture. My next plan is to remove and try it without it, THEn deposit in the nearest bin.

Getting the mix right is crucial. As you say it has to be right for the area to cover. Only mix up what you can cover in halftime the time before it goes off. For a newb I'd say half a bag max. First cost you want to get as much on the wall as flat as poss but don't spend time smoothing. Get it...

In such an upgrade could the VCL consist of just the foil on the kingspan/celotex, or would you need to use foil backed plasterboard as well. Is an air gap required between the kingspan and the brick wall?

Drill works for me too and no plastic bucket in the plaster. Great to see you are tackling a whole house restoration project, and learning to plaster. Its not that tricky but satisfying when you see that rough brick wall turned to beautiful smooth finish. Keep at it. :)

Im surprised insurance companies are now asking 'Is there a crack on your outside walls'. I suspect they wont like the answers and they will be forced to increase premiums massively :x

If it was done in the 70s, it's 40 years old. So rip it out and start again.

Just a word of warning.. I was mixing up plaster today, (using an old drill) when i realised my mixer has stopped working. I looked round and suddenly realised my extension lead with the plug to the drill was sitting in my black bucket completly submerged in water a plaster sludge. OOPS...

For an auction property looks like a nice original example. Somebody would of grabbed it on the day.

Did you have the damp inside before you make the external changes? Is the affected wall the wall that was rehabbed?