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Dave, you described the property as pre-1940's but I didn't think breeze blocks were used until the 50's. The bit about the builders not being able to drive nails into bricks to fit the skirting sound like nonsense to me. Before masonry nails, it was common practice to build in wooden wedges...

Pedantic said: Someone like you then? As a Corgi registered gas engineer you recently gave this advice: Have a look at THIS thread to remind yourself. Pretty useful advice eh?

The awkward bit may be cutting the pipe? I think you need 3-90° connectors though? One into the existing pipe in the floor to bring it up vertically through the floor. One to turn towards the pan parallel with the floor and one to connect to the pan. You can connect two of the pan connectors...

It's a waste of tiles if you don't see them? A small point but, the advantage of fixing the bath first and tiling down to it is that if the walls are not quite square, the tiles will hide the error better because they will overlap the bath where it touches the wall, and leave a smaller gap than...

Does the new pan have a straight horizontal outlet?

That's the construction I'm familiar with in victorian buildings Masona, but Dave has said the wall is on top of the wall plate?

Not absolutely conclusive, but I agree with Tex it's more likely to be a solid wall.

What about this one. It's near Peterborough. :shock:

Dave said: I think we have got some of the picture but not all of it. Like Tex says we don't know if it is a cavity or solid wall. If it's an outside wall, what is the pattern of bricks on the outside. A cavity wall will be laid in stretcher bond i.e. all the bricks in all courses are laid...

Any chance of a photo here Dave 'cos we're all guessing and we may guess wrong?

It was a good diagram but I couldn't resist the joke. I would use tanalised just like the tile battens will be so why not use the same ones? I've just had some delivered; 25x50@19p/metre. I got them in 4.8metre lengths. Jewson's a good firm.

Almost, the order of roof components is right but you're not tiling my roof! :lol:

Good point about the dpc Tex, but would you still recommend putting new wood back? If the dpc is damaged then surely you can put in a new plastic one and brick on top? Depending how long the wall is then you do it in sections.

Just a point of detail here. Tex said: Roofs with sarking boards like you propose require 25mm thick counter battening running up the roof before tiling battens may be fixed. This ensures that any water that gets past the tiles can run down the felt to the gutter.If you don't use these then...

The wall plate was so rotten it wasn't supporting anything. The brickwork was 9"English Bond where alternate courses were headers so the wall was cross bonded. I didn't think the wall plate was a good idea in that situation, so I removed it and bricked it in solid. I built steel joist hangers in...

I've just suggested this as a possible solution to another similar post. Triton supply a plastic 'top hat' filter that fits inside the 15mm supply pipe that connects to the compression elbow on the shower. Perhaps that(or the shower head), is blocked? I would turn off water at main stopcock...

I've come across this construction in a Victorian house in the intermediate floor. (The ground floor joists were supported on sleeper walls but not on the outer wall). In the intermediate floor where the wallplate was rotten I have removed it completely, bricked in, and fixed the joists with...

Grant, you will probably want to use Masona's tool now ,but to answer your question: I use a circular saw but I don't use the fence at all. I clamp a straight edge on the door so that it overhangs, then the circular saw is guided until the cut is finished. I cut kitchen worktops the same way.

I've fitted a few Triton ones and there is a plastic filter that pushes inside the 15mm supply pipe which connects to the compression fitting on the inlet side, so possibility of a blockage there. Otherwise, perhaps the showerhead is blocked.

I know this sounds very basic, but I once had someone ask me about low mains pressure and it turned out to be the stopcock in the road not turned on fully.