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you need a pressure gauge, which is quite expensive...5 bar is quite strong i think. You can't do anything inexpensive to reduce pressure so if your pressure is higher than 5 bar its best just to get another tap. I wonder what would happen to your mixer tap if the pressure was too high

if you don't know how to fix it its best to get a plumber in because you could end up with water spurting everywhere

Why didn't it occur to me that there might already be an internal overflow? Good thinking Bas

I think we're confused about tanks. Is the big tank or the little tank overflowing?

Is your toilet next to your bath? My sister lives in a flat with a bathroom which doesn't have any exterior walls. The overflow on her WC cistern is a plastic pipe which stops over the end of the bath, so if there was an overflow it would go into the bath.

If there is water remaining in the toilet after it is flushed I don't understand how the smell would be coming up through the toilet. I'm wondering if there is a crack in the pipe somewhere (under the floorboards maybe) or whether the toilet isn't firmly secured onto the soilpipe.

double is for double protection. double is usually for outdoor taps. single is for washing machines and dishwashers and i cant think what else

Is your bathroom on the ground floor? is there an internal drain? Is there the normal amount of water left in the toilet after you flush it? Are there any drips on the floor under the soilpipe out of the toilet? You could buy a long wire thing called an auger from a diy store or plumbers...

Hi DP what were you doing that you needed to use the pipe freezing machine for? Has it ever happened to you when freezing two pipes to remove a radiator?

If it is an ex-council building then why would the council get involved in turning off the water? I can't see an alternative to stopping the supply of water from the cistern to the flats by either having a possible stopcock immediately next to the tank turned off or having all of the water...

Is it your property? If not I wouldn't do it myself. If it is your property I would be interested in trying out the pipe freezing and adding a new stopcock onto the copper section idea. But I am not a qualified plumber so don't sue me please. Maybe the safest thing is to have the cistern emptied...

One thing that puzzles me about using pipe freezing machines is what stops the pipe from rupturing in the same way that pipes can rupture when exposed to outside cold temperatures? Anyone know?

Possible causes of noise in radiator: 1) Thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) on every radiator and no bolier interlock facility : one or two radiators shouldn't have a TRV fitted on them. Fit automatic bypass and room thermostat. 2) Water hammer caused by radiator valve being incorrectly...

I may be wrong here but I believe that the water pressure depends on how high your cold water cistern is (do you have mains cold water for your bath or is it supplied by a cistern?) so it should make no distance whether your cylinder is on the first or ground floor. The only thing is you will...

have you tried a plunger?

when you say tank do you mean the hot water cylinder?

To add to my previous reply I guess the safest thing to do is ask the shower manufacturer of the shower to be installed which option they recommend for their shower

Good question taydo and i will rummage round in my notes and also ask my tutor. My tutor didn't decide that the T option was best herself she said that recently shower manufacturers had agreed that it was the best option. Because the T feed to the shower is the first feed then the shower will...

but also you may need a new tap connector washer if you tighten it and you find it still leaks

did you try a basin spanner?