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Maybe, Tony. That's quite philosophical for a DIY P&CH forum, though :D

Aha! :wink: Nige's point is an obvious one - which I missed :oops: TRVs that haven't seen any use for a while tend to stick shut, and removing the head and wiggling the brass pin up and down usually frees things up. It should spring up vigorously when pushed down to its fullest...

Do you mean do away with a trap altogether? This would be very smelly, as there would be no water seal to prevent odours from the drains working their way into the bathroom. Presumably, it's always been like this, and hasn't gradually got worse and worse?

Ah, Naz, that's a bit different. I presume everyone thought that you were puzzled that completely isolated rad connections didn't get hot, which of course they won't. What happens if, bucket strategically placed, you open each valve in turn? Does water flow out of both? C.

Presume you know you could short-out the contacts so the heating runs again, until you buy a new one. Frankly, any of the big brands should be OK as a replacement.

Good, let us know how you get on.

That's a nice idea, Coliholic, but as the others have said, far too dangerous to actually try, surely?! Note that the OP said easy and SAFE. What if it the pipe were the feed to the gas meter and the self-cutting tap didn't seal properly, for example? Or if the tap leaked slightly, which...

For the avoidance of doubt, EITHER WAY ROUND :lol:

But hang on, chaps, isn't Dave getting rid of the Honeywell T6360B bellows stat? As for the CM901, it's battery powered, with a volts-free changeover contact rated at up to mains voltage. Very versatile. So, all you need to do is connect your two wires to terminals A and B, either way...

Neil, as the others have said, as a DIYer, you're strongly advised NOT to remove the combustion chamber cover, let alone attempt to run the boiler without it in place. It's not lighting for a reason, probably because the boiler's electronics are being told that something's not right (i.e. is...

I would go for a plywood lid. Insulate the sides and top, but NOT the underside. Do the pipes too. Check that the tank hasn't distorted because it's not properly supported. It should be on a solid sheet of thick marine ply or similar, not just a couple of bits of wood at either end. This...

Many from builders' merchants seem to be, AFAIK. Most from the big DIY "sheds" aren't. Some of the European ones are fine too, BTW, but don't be fooled by cheap tat with German-sounding names!

Nope, not any old plumber, a registered gas installer. But I have to say that you appear to have a lot missing, so it might be more cost effective to start afresh. Do ask an installer for advice before parting with your hard-earned cash though, as you could end up buying something unsuitable...

How? :? EDIT: Found it here: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=177038#177038 Ah, that makes sense now, thanks. Opinions about bonding vary widely and the regs and recommendations seem to change all the time. I saw a Crittall window bonded once! That makes perfect sense too. So...

Maybe not, but equipotential bonding is still mandatory, of course :shock: Would be very interested to read the report... could you post a link, please?

Tap water (round these parts) IS certainly conductive enough to trip a 30mA RCD if it gets spilled on, say, an IEC connector on the back of a kettle, although I appreciate the terminals are only about an inch apart in that instance. This implies an impedance of under 8KΩ, I suppose. A...

I agree. Then connect the YELLOW wire (with red sleeve) to NO1. It's not 100% clear, but I think you will also need to link L to COM with a short length of insulated wire. Well, that's my educated guess - best info I can give you, without being there and using a meter to verify which...

TicklyT is spot-on: Don't use PTFE tape on the threads, you might as well put up a "DIYer at work" flag. But one turn over the olive works wonders. You can often shorten rad tails yourself... Measure up, remove the olive, then take a hacksaw to the plain bit that goes into the valve, rather...

Some of the £50 ones from the big DIY sheds are OK if you want cheap and cheerful, but there seem to be quality control issues, for example, cracks or manufacturing faults that only make themselves known after installation. For this reason. they're probably a fair bet if you can install (then...

Agreed 8) Yes, almost certainly tripping your RCD, which means you have an imbalance in the current flowing in your Live and Neutral wires, usually because there's an electrical leak between live and earth somewhere. In a CH system, the commonest cause is water leaking into an electrical...