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It all depends on the type of boiler. Tell us more! Many combi boilers, for example, have dedicated onboard terminals for a frost stat. If you had one of these, you'd be in luck and could simply mount the frost stat near the boiler in the garage and link the two with any suitable 2-core...

By definition, you can't have been doing any significant damage, or else you'll have noticed something amiss. Bleach will cause corrosion of some metals though, if it's in contact with them for a long time. A horrible, black discolouration.

Picture, Dan? :wink:

Then their engineers unplugged the servers, cut off the mains cables and stuck "PAT test failed" stickers on them :roll:

Could you point us towards a good one? :wink:

For what it's worth, when I plumbed in a radiator for the first time, I had problems. Even though I'd drained everything as much as I could, there was some residual water which worked its way into my new pipework before I'd soldered it, which resulted in more than one leaky joint and a lot...

The system I referred to above had 22mm pipes (and the equivalent in iron in places), and had two huge (and ancient) chromed towel rails plumbed in series rather than a rad, which makes sense in view of that Nige and 45yearsagasman have said.

...and things are fine now that's been corrected? Or is the PCB toast because of the above?

The wiring is shoddy, although is probably correct in terms of what goes where. The way the flexible conductors are attached to the screw terminals is really messy, there's no cord grip or clips (one hard yank and you've got exposed live wires flying around), and they've used the green/yellow...

You usually have to solder in-situ, otherwise you find that nothing aligns properly. When running the pipes, clip them well away from the soldered joints, or else you'll melt the clips :wink: EDIT... Crossed with Ian again :) P.S. an old ceramic wall tile also works well to prevent...

So, sounds like fully pumped system then. Ian's second thoughts were right. You could install your wireless stat so that it switched off the boiler and pump when the house got up to temperature - not difficult at all. The downside would be that your hot water would stop being heated when the...

Hi Ian (Whitespirit66), Just seen your post, we must have been typing at the same time! That makes perfect sense about the gate valve. If it's really a gravity HW system with a gate valve to shut off the rads, what do you reckon the timeswitch did? Switch both the boiler and pump...

That's a massive help, Shaun. Mmm, it sounds a bit different from any system I've seen. Two more questions for you... (1) As far as you understand it, did the timer switch both the heating AND the hot water on and off together, when that gate valve was open? (2) And did the pump run...

What do you mean by that, Hannah? Now, if someone flushes the toilet while the shower's on, what does the light do? C.

Edit... THe others beat me and did it better too!

Sounds familiar, see here: http://www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/tap-head-removal.294818/ Note that a few just pull off too.

Known as a "combination tank", I think (not to be confused with a combination or "combi" boiler, of course!).

Hello Hannah, So, what you're saying is: at a certain time of day, the amount of water flowing out of the shower drops, and it comes out cold? Does the red light on the shower go off too? If so, I wonder whether the water pressure/flow rate to your house/flat is dropping when all your...

What's the boiler make & model? Have you got the manufacturer's instructions? Most are online. Can you post a picture?

Thanks for the info. Still not sure what you mean by "for water or heating". You shouldn't have to touch gate valves unless you're doing maintenance on the system. Tell us more! This sounds like a simple miswiring issue. The thermostat's contacts should be wired IN SERIES with the live wire...