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You need to tell everyone much more! For a start, what's the make and model?

The expansion vessel is usally a big red tank and has a normal car valve on it. Do a Google image search for: 28cdi expansion vessel to get an idea of what it looks like. To check its charge pressure (about 0.5 Bar - see the Manufacturer's Instructions for the actual figure) you need to...

Very cunning 8)

Alex, How old is the boiler, and when was it last serviced? Did the engineer have any ideas as to what the dust was? The only white thing I can think of within the boiler would be the insulation panels, which shouldn't be crumbling anyway, so presumably, it came down the chimney. I...

You've opened up a can of worms there! There are regular "scraps" here about PTFE, Plumbers' Mait, Fernox LS-X, Hawk White, Boss White (which to some people is a generic name for something which is suitable for potable water too) and so on :shock: Let battle commence :roll:

You were thinking what I was thinking :wink: AFAIK, yes, all stats are similar to the one you're trying to remove. Could you post some pictures?

Mmm, complicated! Could you post us some pictures of everything, please? The thermostat may be not actually be faulty!

Whoever installed it like that was very dim, careless or thoughtless :twisted: How much more room do you think you need to get the thermostat completely out?

You need to make sure that the immersion heater is actually receiving power. Does the "fused connector unit" (switch with a fuse, where the wire from the immersion heater is connected) have a red indicator light on it? If so, is the red light always on when you've switched the immersion on?

Don't forget it can take several hours for the water to get up to temperature. Do you have one immersion heater, or two, by the way? And do you have electric storage heaters? Any timeswitches?

65 degrees is really very hot. If you set the stat to this and the water's tepid, something's wrong. Have you got access to a thermometer that would measure this kind of temperature? BTW, "boiler" usually refers to one of those big white boxes on the wall connected to the gas supply. What you...

Yes! It should be (roughly) calibrated in degrees centigrade. NO! Unless by the "boiler switch" you mean the thing that the wire from the immersion heater runs into. To be on the safe side, do this AND switch off the mains to the whole house at the consumer unit (fusebox). C.

True, but I thought the OP was talking about turning stat down when out and about, rather than running the house at a constant temp all the time.

Read the small print (what's not included, damaged packaging, they don't want to know about warranty claims) then decide if you're happy to take the risk. Paying by PayPal does get you a lot of protection from rogue sellers though, and I've had three full refunds from them over the last 3...

Absolutely no water coming out of any of your house's cold taps? And are the valves that isolate the flow/return to your radiators definitely fully off, i.e. screwdriver slot at exactly 90 degrees to the pipes? You may need to let air into the boiler to get the last of the water out. Have...

I got a Pegler "Applause" on eBay for £125 (new in box) not so long ago, which works well... once I'd removed the ridiculous maximum temperature restrictor which limited the maximum hot water temperature to rather less than my wife insists on :roll...

Shouldn't be a problem as far as I can tell, assuming he's halfway knowledgable about basic electrical wiring.

Horstmann C17 is one channel, C27 two channel (and slightly more costly). For the C17, you would only need 3-core technically: Live, neutral and switched live out. No earth required as it's all plastic (Class II / double insulated). Get the right stuff though, using green/yellow for switched...

If return not possible, I'd go for 3rd option too. I find the cheap Horstmann digital ones from Screwfix very reliable and well made, e.g. http://www.screwfix.com/p/horstmann-c17-timeswitch/27967

There should be a washing machine-style tap at one end, and a non-return valve on the other. As you say, the filling loop should always be removed (to comply with water regs if nothing else), but 9/10 I've seen aren't :wink: