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I suspect the spout is jammed in place because an O-ring has hardened and split. With that collar loosened, try a bit more upwards pulling force, while twisting at the same time. As much force as you dare without ripping the thing off the sink :wink: Without wanting to seem rude, the tap...

Please start a new post, or else everything will get seriously muddled :D

There should be a NON-RETURN VALVE on the boiler side, see http://www.screwfix.com/p/combi-straight-filling-loop/46605 These often fail, and the temptation is then to just leave the loop permanently in place, which is a bad idea (and contravenes the Manufacturer's Instructions, and water regs...

To me, this looks like the sort that CAN'T be cleaned from above. You need to remove the white plastic trap, which as you say, may be hard because there's not much space. Leave the metal waste ("plughole") and overflow section attached to the bath, don't touch the hollow, hexagon-headed...

One of the reasons became interested in plumbing was because my mum now refuses to hire "profesional" plumbers... thanks to a bad experience circa 1990 when one "gentleman" left her downstairs loo floor absolutely flooded with urine (circa 1990) :x

That could be just because it's got warm on its way up to your bathroom. Let the tap run for half a minute and try again.

If the water level in the cistern's too high (for whatever reason), excess water will drain through the syphon's internal overflow, down into the pan.

PCB faults are rarer than a lot of people think... eliminate everything else first! Can you hear the boiler trying to light? Any burners lit? Have you got the Manufacturer's Instructions, and have you tried to follow the fault finding charts in them? This might narrow things down...

New boiler on an old system? Was it powerflushed?

The wiring for systems like this is very straightforward, especially if you've got the basic model without any electronics. Basically, when you want the water in your cylinder heated, mains power is supplied to the boiler's gas valve. When central heating is required, mains is applied to...

In other words, the float valve ("ballcock") in the top tank is allowing the water level to rise above where it should be. Adjusting it would only be a temporary bodge, replacing it is the way to go, as Andy has said. Your DIY friend should be able to do it, I would guess, though the fact...

It's not that complicated :wink: Most thermostats will work with most boilers. You don't have to buy one made by your boiler manufacturer. As you say, wireless sounds the way to go if you don't want to disturb decor, although wired are usually less hastle in the long run (no batteries...

Or could the float valve be faulty and water entering the bowl via the internal overflow?

Karen(?), Are you a householder and owner of the boiler, or RGI? Or neither? C.

That's what I thought too, hence my description of how it could be repaired. I presumed the OP already had a spare washer to hand somehow. I hope you took my tongue-in-cheek comment about you in the way it was intended, Tony :D

Sounds good. Will it really bend around a 15mm 90-degree elbow without problems? Is it easy to cut to accommodate pipe clips? Thanks.

Speaking as nothing more than an observant DIYer only, I have definitely seen a couple of range cookers that were connected with a flexible hose. And I know that this was definitely what the MIs reccomended in one of the cases (my brother's Comet special).

If you can post links to the manufacturer's instructions for BOTH thermostats, someone will help you :wink:

...and not dangerous, as you feared :D

Almost certainly soldered to the PCB. If you can solder, then sourcing a replacement should be easy enough.