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Have spoken to Owatrol who manufacture net-trol. They say that Net-trol is only suitable for outdoor use as it needs to be washed down after treatment, also it is unlikely to remove mould stains. They have suggested that I try a solution of 50:50 bleach in water so I'm going to do a spot test...

Thanks, I'll get hold of some and let you know how I get on Sue

We have just had a pine staircase fitted. The wood was given one coat of waterbased acrylic varnish prior to delivery. There is some green staining under the varnish on one part of the staircase which we understand from asking around could be mould. We have managed to reduce the intensity of...

Thanks for the comments and reassurance that 15mm pipe should be adequate - someone had mentioned that 15mm would be too small so obviously I started to worry. Had never really considered LPG central heating - had always thought it would be very expensive to run (also I would expect bulk gas...

We are having an extension built and will be running the heating from LPG which is being installed with the extension. We will be using a Gazco heater (heat input 3.65 kW) and also will be running a pipe though to the ceiling above our kitchen to serve a gas oven and hob which we plan to...

Thanks to everyone I spoke to the builder this morning and he wants to use the pre-cast cills to close the cavity. He understand my concerns but I think we're going to be stuck with it - doesn't help that everything is quite a way behind schedule and we can't afford to hold things up...

Thanks for all the replies. Our extension is being built onto a stone cottage with 2' thick walls, the extension will be rendered and painted to match the rest of the house. The way the extension is positioned the new windows cannot be seen at the same time as any existing ones but anyway...

We are having an extension built. The uPVC windows ordered by the builder already have cills. Do we still need to use the precast concrete cills that have been included on the plans approved by building control? I will speak to building control direct but just wanted some background advice...

Thanks justlead1, I'm think I can imagine what you are describing but not sure if we could do that in our situation where it's a valley guttering running along the length of two pitch roofs? While I've got a lead expert, would you be able to advise on any protective covering we could lay along...

That sounds useful, I've found snowguards on a web search and will contact a couple of suppliers, they may have some ideas about the mesh for the valley itself. Thanks

I'd guess the valley is about a metre wide at the widest point, tapering down to around 20 cm above the downpipe. There are two small valleys coming down to the big valley at the widest point again from the neighbours roof.

I completely agree! Our roof is OK but unfortunately the neighbouring roof is nail sick and unlikely to be re-roofed in the near future, which puts us in a bit of a dilemma!

Our slate roof is connected to our neighbours roof with a long, wide lead valley. The valley was completely replaced about 6 years ago but unfortunately it gets damaged by falling slates. We are looking for some means of either catching the slates before they hit the valley or lining the lead...

Thanks for two very speedy replies. We too would like the meters to be on an outside wall. I will contact our electricity supplier for their specific requirements on height etc. Thanks again

We need to move our two electric meters. We will be getting the electricity board to move them and an electrician to reconnect to the consumer unit, so we're intending to do everything by the book. I just want to know if there are any regulations which cover where electric meters can/cannot be...