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Sorry, I could recommend someone in my part of Yorkshire.

You need someone who makes and fits bespoke staircases. Whereabouts in the country are you?

What's bizarre is that in an otherwise softwood staircase, at least some part of the badly joined riser in these photos is some kind of hardwood. They haven't even used the same timber. I would get a joiner/carpenter in. If you've given up on getting redress from the builder, pay someone to fix...

I would take them to court, but failing that, it should be possible for a joiner to cut out the winders, measure up and make new to fit. I don't imagine it will be cheap. There's nothing to be done about the join in the stringer on the wall side. The three winders (steps) at the bottom won't...

You can't sand mortar, it's too hard.

For those tiny brackets, put the grinder away and use a hacksaw. In general: 1. Never use a grinder without the side handle in place. 2. Keep both hands on the grinder. 3. Always make sure the work is securely clamped 4. Don't wear gloves. If you must wear gloves, wear tight fitting ones...

Please do. I'm happy to be educated but I think you're mistaken on this one. It's not the case with the two installations I've been involved with. Here's another, from a quick Google: "Distance to combustibles 50mm ... A COMMON CAUSE OF CHIMNEY RELATED FIRES IS THE FAILURE TO MAINTAIN THE...

Sorry, but this is an important point. The clearance is to the outside of the twin wall. Here is an example, with accompanying diagrams: "Building Regulations as well as the approval procedure to which all prefabricated system chimneys are required to be certificated, dictate that an adequate...

I don't think that's right. Flue manufactureres give the minimum distance between the flue and the combustible material. They don't expect the user to extrapolate to the inner wall of a twin wall flue.

I certainly wouldn't do it like that, as you're wasting a huge amount of space. Post a plan of the whole flat, with dimensions

I hate sterile lawns. No insects = no birds

I'd use the T&G floorboards

A chop saw, or compound sliding mitre saw, is much more accurate than a jigsaw. A jigsaw isn't the tool for the job, unless you're having to scribe a wavy bit or something

Thanks. In that case, how does that differ from glueing and screwing 2no 4x2s above, and to the header of the door casing? Sorry if I'm being thick, but don't both result in a 6x4 beam?

[sorry, duplicate reply deleted]

Yes :-)

Is the 2" of the door frame part of this structure? If not, do you think I could site the two 6x4s [edit - I mean 6x2s] behind it, on the top of the pillar built each side of the opening?

Gable ends, yes. A purlin is also a possibility

That's food for thought, thanks.

3.2m