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It was originally a tongue-in-cheek suggestion, but it looks close to being a reasonable idea. I only came up with it last night in mid-post, so I cannot say it is thought through. Obviously with only a single active conductor, the heat generated will be localised, which can cause extra...

Any increase in current carrying capacity using only one of the twin conductors would be a factor less than √2 (i.e. the same heat dissipation). If you use the reciprocal of the grouping factor for two cables of 0.8 you have a factor 1.25, so for 27 A original capacity for T+E, there might...

Useful link, what does "lippings must be replaced and bonded in the correct manner" actually entail? Is it DIY or are we talking specialists?

Would Celotex Insulation Clips be any use? http://www.bizrate.co.uk/homehardware/products__keyword--celotex+plastic+rafter+clips.html

I thought that adding sockets and lights to existing circuits but not in kitchens and bathrooms was an explicit DIY exemption under Part P so that Local Authority Building Control do NOT need to be notified. If that is correct, there would be no point making the exemptions if the CU has to be...

Given that the original idea was to add a 4mm² unfused spur to an existing 32 A ring, the earlier comments about the extra current carrying capacity of 2.5mm² must be disregarded unless you have the design to show that the circuit was originally installed for more than 20 A. Grouping together...

My guess is that the rafters make this a supporting wall and you might need to submit plans and calculations at least 48 hours before starting work.

Interesting, I'd like to know too. My understanding so far is that if you raise or widen the doorway, as it is an external door to an outbuilding, you might need planning permission and BR, then fit a new external door (maximum 1.8 U-value). If the new doorway is the same size, you might be...

I'd like to know too. I kind of assume that fresh oil-based paint hasn't fully polymerised so needs less of a mechanical key than old paint as it can still cross-link with the next layer.

I suspect that concentric earth protection (e.g. SWA) is required for cables not run on the surface, buried deep (or other fictitious mechanical protection) or protected by RCD. Obviously it needs to carry the full fault current to blow the main fuse.

I've no idea, but I'd have thought you either need concentric earth protection or RCD protection on the submain cables.

The 5 A fuses are normally for downstairs and upstairs lighting. One 30 A fuse is probably for sockets. The other 30 A fuse could be for sockets, electric shower or cooker.

The gambles with one 32 A ring and two 20 A radials are completely different: radials: will a CB trip? ring: will a cable melt? Which gamble would you rather lose?

The point is that a ring is susceptible to carrying more than 20 A in a cable without exceeding 32 A load. You talk about overloading a radial, the situation could get much more dangerous with a ring. With two radials, you have a total capability of 40 A without overloading anything. Given that...

Even if it is a double oven, if you pre-heat the oven before using the grill, you'll be unlikely to blow a 13 A plug fuse. An electrician couldn't connect an oven to a general purpose socket circuit, so please consider having it wired 'properly'. As mentioned above, it might be that the socket...

Without an unfused spur on the first socket, its load would nominally be limited to 20 A (let's not start another double-socket thread, please). With an unfused spur though, the socket and the spur together could load the full 32 A onto the ring at the first socket! I can't see anything wrong...

And the reason you don't want to split the ring and go for two 20 A radials (one with your new branch) is? You'd have to ensure that you are between 40% and 60% of the way around the ring to ensure that a 32 A point load on the ring won't result in one leg being overloaded (20 A / 32 A =...

Wet plaster shouldn't affect cable unless the insulation is damaged. Spreads 'never' damage PVC insulation because it could spoil their favourite trowel. On the other hand...

How many nuts are you replacing and how much are the guitars worth? I've bought cheap guitars and adjusted nuts on those using a rat-tail file for the wound and G strings and an old serrated paring knife for the thinner strings. Luthier tools could have set me back more than the guitars. ;)

Single panel radiators might suggest an old heating system with a new boiler. Was the system cleaned before installing the boiler?