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Paul, just to be absolutely clear, am I correct in saying that (in simple terms) the 'S' Plan has two 'on/off' valves: One for the hot water, and one for the CH, each operated by its own thermostat. Whereas the 'Y' Plan has one 'mid-position' valve which diverts heated water to either 'hot...

Excellent. Thank you, Paul B. Exactly what I wanted.

I have a customer who wants me to replace a 2-way valve on his Stanley-powered central heating system, the object being to have a switch on the wall which enables him to manually select "hot water only" or "hot water and central heating". No other options are required, and no timer is required...

Didn't really take to it! Boom, boom :lol: You can't help but take to it: It sticks everywhere, and that's why prefer FixAll. S**t is far more difficult to clean off excess (and off your fingers). It certainly does what it says on the tube. Chemically, I'm sure it's in the same family as...

I'm told by my architect that new-build properties (or in my case, a separate self-contained annex to an existing property) is exempt from VAT. :?: 1: Does that mean that a contractor (e.g. groundworks bloke, plumber, sparks, etc.) will not charge me VAT on his bill? :?: 2: Will major...

and yes, a combi is the easy option for an installer - most combis are rated for the (rubbish) instantaneous hot water service which takes a lot more boiler power than most folk think so they will easily do the majority of heating demands without the need for heat loss calculations - any trained...

In my humble opinion, you should fit skirting asap before it has a chance to warp. Once it's in place (assuming it's been fixed properly), it should stay flat. If you eave it to dry out a bit, odds are it will warp.

No, I'm not CORGI registered. I just followed the customer's instruction manual because the old lady concerned couldn't understand it. It seems that many people down here have been persuaded to install a combi boiler. My impression (rightly or wrongly) is that it's the easy option for the...

Pah! Why are so many plumbers obsessed with combi boilers? It's Saturday afternoon and I've just returned from sorting out a combi boiler which had a mind of its own, going off even if timer and thermostat said 'on'. Sorted it out by boosting the pressure to 1 bar, whereas the CORGI plumber...

Not when it's impossible to get a header tank higher than 12" above the upstairs shower head. I can put the Megaflow cylinder in the basement right next to the boiler and immediately underneath the kitchen sink: Instant hot water at the sink.

Every combi system I've ever come across never seems able to produce hot water at reasonable flow: Turn the flow up and the temperature drops. Keep the flow down to keep temperature up, and it takes ages to fill a sink, or whatever. Add to this someone running cold water or flushing the bog, and...

Yes I have. It's called Purocol (and you can get Purocol Express too, which goes off more quickly), and yes, it's the best wood adhesive I've ever used. Brilliant stuff. Also brilliant for repairing raised edges of worktop laminate (e.g. where the folded under bit along the front edge, has...

If your boards and wall are fairly straight (i.e. no major gaps) you could use "Fixall" made by Soudal. This is the best adhesive/caulk I've found. Not quite as good as Gripfil as an adhesive (but still very good), but much better than Gripfil for giving a neat finish. See...

When I first started in the carpentry business (when you used to have to sharpen your saws), I used to have a cross-cut saw and a rip-saw, amongst others. Now I use "disposable" Spear & Jackson Predator saws, (they being the best of all the modern ones I've tried). But why are they now called...

Thank you for all your advice and comments. My conclusion is to use 15mm Hep pipe, and insulate where possible.

I don't want to use copper because of the fire risk in making loads of soldered joints close to the underside of my floor (and Hep is easier to install). I decided on barrier Hep because I was told that its higher temp rating gave improved heat loss and I could get away without insulation...

I am about to install new central heating pipework and new rads in my house. Most of the pipework will be in the cellar, where the new boiler will be installed. I am proposing to use Hep2O HXX barrier pipe (because it has higher temperature rating). Question: Should I insulate the pipework?

I saw that. Jesus! It would be cheaper to pay you £50/hour plus travel expenses to come and tighten them up by hand. I will try the 12 point option over the next couple days.

Now, why didn't I think of 12 point sockets? And yes, those Snap-on things look OK. I know a local Snap-On bloke, so I'll give him some coach bolts to check correct size(s). Thanks, Hitachimad. (And I didn't think of asking him in the first place, either. I put it all down to age).

I've got a lot of these to drive in. Where can I get a socket that fits these things? Is there such a thing made?