Search results

Strange that the water in the radiator was clear, I would have expected some gunk, even in fairly new ones. Try following the pipes and finding where they tee off to the downstairs, maybe tapping the pipes with a soft hammer will help loosen the blockage

If some of your radiators are getting hot then that tells you that there must be sufficient flow to make them work all around that piping. There may be insufficient to heat all the radiators but by turning the hot ones off you are diverting that flow to the cold ones. the fact that they still...

Yes I only cleared the blockage but in the end it solved the problem. I would be cautious paying for a power flush, yes It'll get some crap out but a lot will still remain, just as much as a manual flush, But it's upto you

Hells yeah, Point it in one end and shoot the black crap out the other. They were solid old single panels though, wouldn't try it on these modern flimsy ones, Afterwards you could see through to the other side and none of them leaked

There may no be a bypass at all, what makes you think they would fit one, and if they did, why would it be somewhere you can't access, if there was one I'd bet 99% it'd be in that cupboard. If you've got a few hundred to burn go for it. I got a pressure washer for £30 and an assistant paid in...

Possibly down to a basement or void to prevent damp. Not sure of the answer to your question as I've never used one. The fact that some radiators are getting hot indicates that the pump is likely ok imo. If your downstairs radiators are cold it does sound to me like a sludge problem...

Looks right to me, where do those grey and white pipes go to / from?

Not sure exactly as I'm no expert it was just a theory, easy to check by turning heating on and water off, go to the tank and feel if water is flowing through the feed & return pipes, also if the how water has been off for a while they should be cold and get warm if that is the case

The bypass is designed to open when the pressure reaches a certain level to protect the pump when the trvs shut off. Have you thought if the diverter is stuck open to rads and water tank?

First thing I would do would be to isolate them and drain them then flush them. I had the same problem when I moved in and by flushing (pressure washer in one end, other end down the drain) about 20 minutes for each radiator was black sludgey water. After that they were great. Then fit a...

ok, so i've tried bedroom 2 first by opening it a little at a time then waiting for it to settle, ended up opening it by about 1/2 a turn in total and the difference didnt change at all :? now i'm wondering if my temperature meter might be duff. don't have radiator in the living room...

I have the following differences at boiler flow temp of 71c (set to max): Boiler = 14 Bedroom 1 = 15 Bedroom 2 = 16 Hall = 10 Bathroom = 7

ok, that makes sense now :lol: so today i've started again with the lockshields all set to 1/2 a turn open, and TRV heads off. I haven't changed the pump from number 2 yet due to being banned (by the Mrs) from entering the loft for 24 hours since i put my foot through the ceiling yesterday...

It's impossible to tell which wires go to where on the other switch but this is what it should be. http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy/electrics/light_fitting/two_way_harmonised.jpg If you have a multimeter you should turn the power off and check

Off the top of my head you have a 2 way switching system, you will need a switch which has this function. If you do, try moving the cable from the l1 to l2 terminal on the switch, if it doesn't work try the same on the other switch

Do your radiators have trvs? If so they may be turned down / off or be sticking closed

thanks for all your advice! i tried this this morning but the problem I've found is that the difference chnges between about 5 and 20 degrees so i'm not sure at what point to take the reading :?

ok i've taken the TRV heads off and adjusted all the lockshields to 1/2 turn open. one thing im not sure of is how i should be adjusting it. If the difference is, say, 20 degrees, should i be opening it to allow more flow and less of a difference? similarly if the difference is only 5...

Yes I have a 3 port valve, Drayton MA1 rings a bell. The boiler output is only what I have found from an online spec, I've not taken the cover off. The radiator sizes were dictated by 2 things, firstly using the b&q online calculator to give me a rough idea of the btu requirement and...

I'll try turning up the pump to 3 HW is off and all TRVs are set to 5 currently (there are only 2 with TRVs and 2 without) ill also try taking them off tomorrow and trying again. no bypass valve, i was advised i didn't need one because I have 2 rads without TRVs. the boiler has an...