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Another way to cope with the cables is to lay 2x1 battens on top of the joists but at right angles. The cables can then be kept in place, no notching or drilling of either the joists (or trusses) or the battens. Just put the battens at the right spacing for the loft boarding, which for the...

It's one way of doing it to make a spur. Technically you can only have one socket on a spur. But by using the FCU there is no limit to the number of sockets after the FCU as the FCU is protecting the cable. The FCU will need a 13A fuse though, not 30A. When you're drilling through the wall...

Going off topic, but you could put the flaming match in petrol and it won't explode! :P In fact the match will go out.

That's because you've joined live and neutral together (as far as I can tell from looking at the picture) which means a short which blows the mcb.

They musn't touch. The insulation on T&E is rated to about 70 degrees, but heating pipes can go upto 80. It won't melt straight away if the pipes aren't that hot, but it will degrade the insulation over time.

Do one wall at a time.

Allow for more wastage then with unpatterned paper. Especially true for large patterns and if you're unlucky you'll have 90% of the pattern wasted on each drop. Worst case you'll only get 2 drops out of a roll! :cry:

Its a bit late though isn't it? It's already law (or at least in the building regulations).

Sockets and switches should be between 450mm and 1200mm from finished floor level (FFL). This is given as one possible way to meet the requirements of disabled visiters/guests/home owners. However this is only for new builds and full renovations. If you are doing a full re-wire but not a...

There is no limit to the number of sockets on a ring main. The limit on a ring main is 100 sq m of floor space within the ring. The figure 20 probably comes from the average number of sockets that are typically fitted on a ring.

No, the LBC have to get the installation certified themselves. If they have to hire an electrician to do the checking then they have to carry the cost of it, not the home owner. The home owner only has to pay the normal charge for any building notfication, approx £100-150 depending on council.

Before you put the sealant down, make sure the joints are dry. Really dry. Otherwise it won't work. The sealant needs a good amount of time to dry before it can take water. 24h should cover any situation.

You've got too much water vapour in the air. You need better ventilation. Either with a extractor fan, or at the very least keep the door to the bathroom open to allow the air to circulate. And don't have long hot showers! :lol:

Thats why lining paper and normal wallpaper are different widths, though I usually hang my lining paper horizontally unless painting over.

Short term measure to keep your boiler going in thie cold weather till a proper fix is done is to get a short length of 2.5mm T&E and using a terminal strips connect up the two ends to the short length. Now go to the shops and get bits necessary to fix it properly. :) What you do next...

I've not heard of any minimum length regulation between sockets on a ring. There are regulations for maximum length as qedelec has stated in high tech electro techno babel :lol: (in other words using words which the man in the street might not understand).

Use a screwdriver.

They're medium. :wink: Use a notched trowel.

It's ok. Not the best way, but it will work if taking them off is too difficult due to damaging the plaster or whatever. Do clean the tiles properly though. Using sugar soap will make sure of this.

Generally the accepted method is to put the adhesive on the wall, and then using the notched trowel, make horizontal grooves. They don't need to be wavy. The adhesive is notched to allow the tile to be bedded down properly, the adhesive having space to spread via the notches. Dot and dab is only...