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P4 or P5 T&G chipboard is not inferior to softwood flooring. They both do the job properly. They have to to meet building regulations. Both have to be cut to access services underneath. With chipboard you can get systems that allow a neat hole to be cut with ease.

And it doesn't involve Part P!. :)

No planning issues, but there may be building regulation issues as nstreet says.

If you've knocked a doorway through a wall you would need more than just a bit of concrete to fill above the door. You need a lintel to take the load. Doing such work is not something for the weekend DIYer. If the doorway was in a non-loadbearing wall then you can get away with just plasterboard...

Not odd, but not usual either. Proper way would be to have it on it's own circuit, but taking a feed (and with a FCU to be totally correct) off the lighting circuit isn't going to burn your house down so nothing to worry about.

Is your boiler thermostat working? It could be that the boiler isn't being told to switch off so it keeps on heating up the water till the heat rises up the vent pipe.

No. The water is black because it contains inhibitor to stop the rusting. The fact that only a small amount of air came out also means that the CH system is in pretty good nick after so long. See here for such a product - http://www.diynot.com/shop/CENTRAL_HEATING_INHIBITOR_1_LITRE/6213

Have a look at Lectrician's post on page 3 of the sticky thread at the top of this forum titled "For reference". http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7553&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

And make sure the crimp is the right way round as well. A couple of practise tries will quickly show which way the right way round.

Go to google and type in "bathroom zones" for a full description, or see "The Reference" sticky post at the top of this forum. Basically it sets out volumes around the bath and other water sources where there are limitations on the type of electrical equipement (if any) that can be placed in...

To the OP... If the wall opposite your bath is over 3.0m away from it, then you could put it on that wall but only via an FCU. You say your bathroom is larger than your kitchen so it might be that large!!!!! However, even in that case the flex should not allow the portable equipment to be...

Colour blindness means that it's hard ot tell the differnece between red and green, not shades of brown to black.

A bit of an extreme statement! Worse that can happen with click style laminate is that some of the boards get their T&G damaged a bit. You quickly learn to try something else. I've even installed some laminate flooring by sliding it along the long T&G when there hasn't been much space to fit it...

Also called drylining back boxes.

If a porch was built with a new external door and the old one left in place, then no planning would be required. If someone come along later and decided that they didn't like the old external door and changed it to a internal door how would the planning dept know about it and how likely would it...

I suspect BC will ask you to lift up the joists and put down a wall plate. It's there for a reason, to spread the load of the roof. Having the joists resting on the outer leaf is not good. It's ok for the fascia to be nailed to the ends of the joists. It'll probably be easier to replace the...

3) Also you generally start from the left. Another point is that you want to try and have the boards in line with the window or light source. In other words the short edge of the board is parallel with the light source. This minimises any shadows. This also is the case in long hallways.

No.

Start at the top left if you're right handed, top right if you're left handed.

Nope. Not ideal, but not a disaster.