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No, it's most definatly not ok. Yes it should be changed. Get the 2nd guy back in to fix it properly, though from the sounds of it might be better to get another "proper" electrician in - maybe the first one?

Active Splitters run on power. Most active splitters also boost the signal a tiny bit to compensate for the signal that would usually be lost after passing through a passive splitter. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to control the Sky box through the coax cable from two IR thingies...

Sounds like the plaster dried out too quickly. Not the same as going off too quickly. Did you do the plastering in hot weather, or put heaters on in the room to dry it out quickly. I'm no expert by the way.

If you really don't want to lift the boards, you could use your 50mm screws and rawlplugs, but don't just drill a clearance hole in the chipboard, make it a slot so that the wood can move a bit.

You could get some large rubber pads to put under the washing machine to minimise the vibrations.

Private residential buildings (dwellings) don't need ramps (unless there really is a disabled person living in the home!). The bottom of sockets must be 450mm above the floor, and the top of switches must be 1200mm above the floor. In theory either of them has to be between 450mm and 1200mm...

Is your convservatory built in front of existing patio doors and are the patio doors still in place? If so (and the doors are still lockable) then it's not classified as part of the building and you don't need planning permission. Bulding Regs is a bit less strict in this case as well as it...

Being a member of Corgi does not mean anything in terms of workmanship, or customer relations, or charges. All it means is that the plumber took a test and passed that one time that was necessary and then paid his dues to Corgi. It's the same with Fensa (the window orgnisation), they don't...

BAs he did say three pieces of wood as well as the hangers and coat rail. In fact I made one from some 2x2 built into two A frame shapes joined together at the bottom with a hole in the top of the A for a bit of Hep2O 15mm pipe. The frame is only high enough and wide enough for a roll of 100m...

I've found that warm to hot water and a good bit of rubbing with a cloth gets some emulsion off the walls. It's not brilliant at getting every single bit off so it's not useful for stripping completly, but thats not necessary for tiling so long as the adhesive has a good proportion of nice...

I use the spacers for wall tiling, but I stick them in edge on as it were. I usually use them for the vertical spacing as well, but it depends on the quality of the tiles. Sometimes the tiles aren't exactly the same size so when using spacers it can lead to a situation where the tiles get out of...

Alternatively Amazon sell both books too. OSG - http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0863413749/qid=1125522687 ELec's guide to Building Regs - http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0953788547/qid=1125522833

If you're replacing the window why are you bothering to remove just the beading? Are you keeping the glass, but just changing the frames? To remove the beading get a stiffish stripping knife and shorten it till there is only a couple of inches of blade left, then sharpen the blade so that it...

Quick answer - no. Long answer - no, FENSA does not apply to commercial premises or New Build properties. In both of these instances you are required to go through the Local Authority Building Control process. As mentioned by fensa themselves at http://www.fensa.co.uk/faq.html

You can't make assumptions about stud walls not being load bearing. Sometimes the only way of finding out is to investigate which can mean taking up floorboards, or if you are really planning on removing the wall then be prepared to change your design if it is actually a load bearing wall...

Depends on your experience with soldering. With push fit stuff it's quite easy to ensure a water tight seal and if you haven't you just need to re-do the joint. With copper you have to ensure the joint's bone dry first and if you have made a small ****-up then you have to take the joint apart...

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Being a kitchen doesn't mean anything. Youi could get retrospective permission, it would make things a lot better for whoever buys the house off you. You don't have to do though. That's up to you, though in the negotiation stage of buying a house, anything can be put into the pot, but the...

Yep that sounds right. Have a look at your council's development plan. Check to see what your land is classified as. If it's outside the residential area then you will have to really prove that a house is valid. Also, the develpment plan will indicate what the council wants to see happen in...

Generally it better to go in one direction only - forward. Because the sander rotates in one direction only, its better to let it try and travel in the direction it wants to go but to control it but holding it back. Pulling it back is just way to hard and would not be easy to control.