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I would use either the woodfibre based underlay that comes in panels (with a DPM because of the concrete floor) and is quite thick, or Floormaster Heavy Duty Underlay which has a foil backing acting as a damp proof membrane. The Floormaster only handles 1-2mm deviation, but laminate flooring can...

MDF is heavy stuff, you're better off with the 9.5mm plasterboard. I'd use decorator's caulk rather than sealent for any gaps at the edges.

Some plumbers will do just the gas work, though be prepared to have them question your DIY skills. One way is to have just one radiator done by the plumber (prefereable close to the boiler to make his job easier) and everything tested and commisioned boiler wise (except for inhibitor etc)...

I stand to be corrected, but I would lightly sand down the varnish to provide a key for a coat of undercoat. No primer needed. Then two coats of eggshell (I assume from your description of satin like gloss), lightly sanding between the two coats - though if you are painting the 2nd coat as soon...

I would imagine its easier for the plasterer to do his job without the bath in the way. The overlap by the tiles on to the bath is more than adequate when the edge is sealed properly.

Not quite illegal, but its against all building reguilations and breaks all guarantees etc over the trusses. Trusses should not be touched, not even to have a nail put in them except if told it's ok by an architect or structural engineer. The whole point about trusses is that they are designed...

Put carpet down, covers all the paint very quickly. Changing the spindles and bannister is not that difficult and will look a lot better than panelling which looks very 60's and out of date.

No real problems, just a lot more fiddly and awkward. Run a bead of sealant to ensure a water tight seal.

Have a chat with the IEE.

1st off if you're asking such a question then you won't be able to do the rendering. It takes years and years of practise to be able to render to any half decent qualtity. But to satisfy your curiousity its the ratios of sand, lime, and cement.

I did say if they aren't aware of the rules, not ignoring them. Yes if they are aware of the rules and ignore them because they know that the way they run their life means the risk is acceptable or minimised then they are also probably aware of the problems with insurance etc. But many people...

The ideal way for underfloor heating is to embedd it in a screed floor. This proivides the thermal mass that makes underfloor heating work well. So rather than have the heating under the floor I would put it over the floor. A screed of about 50mm (I think that's about right) on top of the OSB...

All doors need to be firedoors just in case a fire starts in one of the rooms and you need to get down from the attic room past the fire to the ground. Also the stairs to the ground floor (or any floor) must not exit into a room. So you must have a hallway from the stairs to the front door. A...

If tiling over a wooden fllor 18mm ply should be used to provide a stiff enough surface for the tiles. Also, a flexible additive must be added to cope with the last few nanometers of movement. Chipboard is a **** surface to tile on. Rip and start again with WPB ply underneatn, possibly taking up...

Ideally you should only need to cut on the ends nearest the walls and not in the middle of the floor. That's what the T&G is for. Where there is a join between two boards, it should be over a joist or if you can't do that, put a noggin in between the joists for the joint to rest on. If in...

For the nailed ones use a claw hammer or small crowbar. Use a small piece of thin scrap wood to lever the hammer on so it doesn't damage the parquet floor. There will be some damage if not from the lever and trying to make a gap to get the crowbar/hammer under the stip then from the nails...

So do you have a roll top bath? All baths can take a shower over, but they have differing methods of stopping water splashing everywhere. A shower curtain works well for free standing baths. You describe your bath as enclosed on three sides, yet you say that the water leaks over the edge. So...

If you have any worries, work a wire brush over the paint to expose some of the plaster

Most gas hobs come with a plug for the ignition. Yours is probably plugged in underneath, behind the oven - if the oven is underneath your hob. You will need to slide your oven out and have a look behind it. Turn off the oven first!

Note that if you have trussed rafters cutting the joist part of the trussed rafter can cause problems as they are not designed to be cut at all. From the Trussed Rafter Association .... "It cannot be overstressed that the strength and lightness of trussed rafters derives from the combination...