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I would keep it. I've lived in two houses which have it and they're good. Good even temperatures and quick to warm up compared to rads. Considering the expense, it would be cheaper to box in the unit (leaving a bit for a grill for venting) and have it cleaned out. The only downsides with warm...

Use more adhesive, but allow more time for it to dry out before you do the grouting.

If it's just one wall, then I would allow four/five days for a complete novice depending on the size of the wall. * Taking the old tiles down shouldn't take long. Wear goggles and gloves since the tile chips are bloody sharp! * First day work out where you tiles will be placed. Try and...

Ignoring the other two who are having a spat, yes you can but only if the wood is secure and not liable to any flexing. By cladding do you mean T&G paneling? If so, then I would so you're better off ripping of the cladding as it would be simpler to tile onto the wall itself.

I thought the switch/socket height reg was only for rooms accessible by guests, and not neccessary in kitchens where the worktop defined the height of sockets (min 50mm above worktop).

You mention the ends of each piece are raised. Do you mean the end of each piece of laminate, or the end of each row of laminate. If the former do you mean that your floor is undulating and you can't do the slide in your socks? If the later do you mean the edges around the walls has lifted and...

Definition of malarky - http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=malarky

Have you considered sealing the tiles first? Not with silicone sealant but with stone sealer, available from Wickes and such like.

Alternatively, cut the earth wire, slip on some green and yellow sleaving and connect the two parts of the earth wire to the earth terminal in the back box.

The clue is in the words switched live and permanent live. The permanent live is wired in to live, the switched live is wired to the live in your light switch (or a seperate switch). The fan is designed to work and sense humidity only when the light is on. That way it doesn't come on in the...

I just use my teeth! :wink:

And any wet that reaches the cavity goes down the cavity to the ground and shouldn't reach the inner skin.

Get a bag of patch plaster. A lot cheaper than ready mixed pollyfilla.

Try http://www.showerspares.com/ for spare parts.

If you tile the whole floor then you've covered yourself if you want to change the layout of the kitchen in the future and won't be changing the floor. So the tiles are effectively "wasted" under the units. However I would but the kitchen units on the screed and then tile, and tile to just under...

If you've got an up to date electrical installation you won't have any worries since the RCD will trip if you do get water coming out the back.