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Yep, I agree, nothing wrong with asking and that is the problem with the system as well.. while there are lots of great electricians who do the job properly there are equally lots of electricians who do a job which is at the same level as DIY.. if not worse in some questions yet they can call...

true, that is a disadvantage of plastic boxes. in terms of stress some of that would depend on how the cable is clipped so metal box does have its advantages, what i would of done personally is drill the holes in the wall get the plugs in the wall where you want the final position of the...

its hard to quantify, as on a higher setting it will use more quicker than on a lower setting. if you have it on a low setting its not going to use 15Kw per every hour of use. whereas the highest setting might... also depends on if thats 1 hour continuous or 1 hour spread out

This would be a more ideal size, http://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-galvanised-adaptable-box-with-knockouts-100-x-100-x-50mm/45444;jsessionid=pKQyQdhGZqZ2nsT6DdFBb0NMnc2brGZNtGkJc3QcQXPfX51pJyV1!-467609224 it also has the knockouts. worrying thing though is, if you are an a sparky that...

Hi, Thanks yep, the ones ive got in our house seem like a good quality product. and certainly more expensive than Kidde ones, which would re-inforce that theres a reason for them being more expensive. was just wondering, because Kidde are a better known brand and possibly been going...

Hi, which is better, I am looking for Lithium Backup, with 230v mains and interconnectivity. looking at it, I have narrowed it down between Kidde and Ei.. Ei have a combined optical and heat detector which Kidde dont list, and Ei are more expensive than Kidde.. but whether that means...

was just looking at Elecsa, unlike Nappit and NICEIC I cant find any references to "scope" NICEIC have Level A and Level B Scope, which looks to be assessment dependant? but could be wrong... and Nappit look like they have Full Scope and Defined Scope... which are qualification dependant...

Unless you work for LABC BAS lol

can concur with BAS. We have a 10mm cable feeding our shower, and it does indeed get a little warm to the touch.

Sorry about the late reply lol, yep I am in a similar situation.. although I dont have decades of experience, but I do have a habbit of if I need to do a job, I read the requirements.. learn how its done.. do it, learn from doing it (but not doing it to a sub standard) then next time do it...

Just because the trade "do things" doesnt make it correct. as said in a previous thread about FENSA, by somebody else most only do quick installation training and install with a botch and run attitude. I have come accross brand new installations by FENSA installers with the frame drains...

could it have anything to do with the fact that bathrooms and kitchens under part p are considered special areas? so the inspector is considering that if anything is done in a bathroom or kitchen because they are special areas they should be brought up to standard for safety reasons?

Personally I think FENSA is nothing but a joke, and excuse for them to profiteer. I always go through building control when changing windows, and as posted previously whenever installing I use Cavity closers where required which close off the cavity and also have a built in Damp proof course...

its directed at trade because replacement windows and exterior doors require building control notification now. only acceptable way of doing this is via building notification which costs in the region of £150 and has an inspection after installation. or through a trade installer registered...

lol, maybe I will be slated for this? but I quite like MK stuff :)

solid wood doors are ok to chop as much as you want off them. but non solid doors you cant because some you will find are actually not solid at all... they are a wooden frame around the edge, then chipboard in the centre then veneered with real wood to look like solid wood.

it only slides in as far as I know normally. problem is, I think they slide these seals in before they fusion weld the corners.. so once frame has been fusion welded you have no open end to slide the old seal out, and new seal back into.

I was replying in response to that.

Best method I find for draftproofing is, 5mm gap around edge roughly to allow for expansion and contraction, expanding foam around the 3 edges in the 5mm gap.. then silicone sealant over the top on outside, caulking on inside. then you have not only a thermal separation between the window...

some condensation problems it should be noted are also caused by bad installation.