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in our kitchen we have a circuit for the kitchen sockets. then another circuit for heavy load appliances like washing machine, dryer, dishwasher etc and things although currently no dishwasher. not usual to have a separate circuit, but it does reduce the loading on the kichen circuit if...

Some electricians will under their guidance allow you to do the hard work of chasing out walls and sinking boxes yourself. As long as you put cable runs where they want them, and place accessories where they want them so they are in keeping with the locations permitted by regulations. As long...

Hi, at the end of the day it is up to you, your choice. But may I point you in the direction of part p? Kitchens and bathrooms are notifiable areas. And making alterations to a kitchen circuit, may seem trivial but do your changes take into consideration the load carrying capacity of...

Hi, Halogen bulbs always need to be handled with tissue or something, do not touch them. Same as car headlamp bulbs, and some under kitchen cabinet lighting bulbs etc. If you do, then as stated the bulbs wont last long at all, only way to try and salvage is to clean with methylated...

Hi, As stated you should not be using a class 1 light fitting without an earth! there should be an earth, copper wire without insulation, and should be sleaved green and yellow although older wiring sometimes just had green sleaving. either way, should be earthed, as it is dangerous to use...

When we had electrician do ours here.. we ended up with circuits for, Upstairs lighting Downstairs lighting Upstairs sockets Downstairs sockets Kitchen Sockets Appliances (for washing machine, dryer and possibly later on dish washer) also have a couple of low wattage devices like a...

Hi, Cable does get warm, especially things like shower cables.. certainly ive got a 10mm cable for our shower here and sometimes you can feel the cable after using the shower and it is noticeably warm. Electric hob cables are probably the same. The general socket and lighting circuit...

Personally id remove all the connections and start again. The reason why it fell apart is probably because 1 of the connections was loose to begin with, or overtightened.. no need to say how dangerous this is as to be blunt your "friend" could of burnt your house down.. or the connector...

Dont think inside a cuboard is classed as easily accessible? because putting an isolator inside a cuboard means its at risk of being obstructed.. and if you have to pull out half the cuboard to get to it in an emergency? not really practical. also, if it requires maintenance its a little...

In our kitchen, it has a socket behind the chimney/cover so its all hidden for the extractor hood to plug into, a socket because the extractor came with a moulded plug. then that feeds into an FCU isolator above the worktop next to the kitchen socket. So it can quickly and easily be...

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Under_Worktop_Sockets/index.html

BAS, what about Induction Hob and electric oven? because I heard induction hobs have a lot of the controlability of gas.

Hi, like most other people on here, will sugest you seek the advice of an electrician, because you have wired it up incorrectly, and theres always a risk of causing serious injury or burning your house down... there is no neutral terminal on a light switch plate. in 1 way switching, you...

if you lay 1 on top of the other, and the din rail fixings on the back are aligned, and the vertical height of the protruding section (which has the switch on it) is the same distance from both ends... then despite 1 protruding out more than the other it should fit. probably just different...

true lol which is probably the main reason why people dont buy them.. but the ironic thing is add up all the wasted electricity every time it coems on and you dont want it and the cost probably evens out over time. 2 pull cords is a more sensible option than using the light, but if like some...

yep, but its a grey area very oppinionated and controversial and most discussions seem to end up in arguements about who is right and who is wrong. ideally, the experience you would think would count towards the person doing it longer rather than the newly qualified person. but in practice...

well then wouldnt it be more applicable to use an extractor fan with a humidistat? so as soon as the humidity of the room rises (because the bath/shower is on) the fan automatically comes on when required... then goes off again once the humidity has dropped. rather than it coming on...

I know most extrator fans seem to be timed and come on with the light, but like BAS says, why? because in most cases its probably not the most practical way of activating an extractor fan. So in that respect I agree with BAS and like he says "when do you really want/need the fan to come on?"...

+1 armoured cable BAS knows his stuff

I agree BAS it is not their job to know, although reservedly I do think the staff should have an adequate knowledge to properly advise customers. Because it is a DIY store after all so to a certain degree the staff have to expect to be asked questions every now and again. But like you say...