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Ah - life's never simple. I ask for the difference between two things and learn that I need comething else! Can you point to a 'full bore balofix' on scewfix or somewhere, please?

Thanks. My job evidently needs a stop cock.

What's the difference between a stop cock and a gate valve and when do you use which?

No.

Our postman is not that thin.

Doubtless of excellent quality, but putty is cheap and heavy so I get it from nearest builders merchant rather than mail order.

Well I don't paint the rebate except with linseed oil. Alback, the Swedish manufacturer of the linseed paint that Holkhams sell, recommend that after 7 years a coat of linseed oil is applied and after a further 7 years a single coat of paint is applied. This 14 year mainenance cycly is...

If you use a real linseed oil paint then you wont need to soak the wood with poison. It won't rot as the paint is so vapour permeable that the wood will be able to dry out, preventing moulds from thriving. The paint lasts much much longer than most paints so Dulux don't sell it. No one buys...

It's Part B that should concern you: And the 450 mm width requirement may apply to your situation. I suspect you may have to take the advice (or instructions) from your local authority Building Control Officer. :(

This topic was discussed at length here quite recently.

Yes, JohnD's right about the wood getting grubby if you leave it bare, but any cracking and distortion in oak is not going to be affected or preventable by surface treatments. Tung oil ( or Danish) leaves the wood looking very natural without too shiney a surface. That's what I use on the oak...

>The current finish on the untreated doors is the look we want So the obvious approach is to do nothing. No problem. Or you could rub a little linseed oil or tung oil in. Or you could use beeswax, You could first oil it and then wax it but once you have waxed it you can't then put oil on...

Stick with real linseed oil putty. It's so much better. But use real linseed oil paint. Since it is pretty much made of the same stuff as the putty the two are very compatible and will bond well. The painting can be done just as soon as the putty surface is solid enough to not distort when...

If you still think there is some merit in PVC windows then read this: http://www.greenspec.co.uk/pdf/Enviro_Impacts_of_PVC.pdf

Oh, you know how quickly a blow lamp cut through PVC, then.

No! Don't do it. Plastic windows are evil. If you really can't repair the wooden windows then replace them with new wooden ones. Much more beautiful, much better for the planet and much cheaper in the long run as wooden ones should last for centuries instead of barely decades, (if you use...

In which case just sit back and enjoy the sunshine. Give it another coat of oil in a couple of years.

Six coats! I only use one coat of oil before painting with linseed oil paint. That's just enough to stop the wood absorbing too much oil from the paint leaving a film with too much pigment and not enough binder. I suggest you get a rag and rub off as much oil as possible, then wait several...

Someone might argue it's not exactly wrong since the Initial Admin Fee is £100 and the annual Fee is £100. But the complete shopping list for the non-VAT registered joiner looks more like this: Initial Admin Fee £117.50 Annual Registration Fee £117.50 Vetting fee £235.00 Building Regs...

All upvc is a rip-off. Get a wooden one. :)