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Thanks for all the advice, dunno what I'm gonna do - probably start with the coke - ballcocks!

Too tough for that I think. One of my mates has suggested coke and another one has offered his high pressure washer. The brick acid is my last resort I think. If the worst comes to the worst I can replace the bricks, I just don't want to exacerbate the situation - I'm hoping to get paid on...

Thanks, not sure where to get it from or how aggressive it might be. What do you think about a pressure washer? About 10-12 bricks affected, customer upset and I don't want to make it any worse!

Not really a plumbing problem, but whilst fitting a boiler I spilled some cement onto a block paved drive. I've tried hosing it down and brushing it off, but not much luck. Any advice chaps? TIA

If you want to use bell wire then that's up to you. I wouldn't, in the same way that I would be unlikely to use a twin channel programmer switching 230V on a combi, even a Betacom :wink: I would always use .75mm - 1.0mm heat resistant flex as I suspect most installers would. In the OP's...

My guess would be a perforated coil in the HWC. The fact that it settles down to 0.5 bar might correspond to the head of water provided by the CWC.

Most people would fit a programmable thermostat. If he's fitting a programmer then he also needs a separate thermostat which is not only complicating things, but the 230V ones (what I assume the OP means by HV) will almost certainly fry his combi. Programmable stats most certainly do not...

Why are you fitting a programmer on a combi? not saying it can't be done but tbh, you sound a little clueless. Not answering this perfectly reasonable question was also a bit daft. Bell wire is for bells and chimes, not boilers. No wiring is supplied with the programmer. I understood from...

Yep, and I was the first :lol:

Get someone else to fit the boiler after you've installed the rads and pipework.

Page 12 section 7.4.2 refers to it.

You could convert to a 'C' plan if your boiler is not fully pumped compatible, might be expensive though.

You might be better off using a room thermostat with a frost protection setting and leaving the HW off. This should maintain the house at 10 degrees - still really cold, but well above freezing point. Make sure it's wired correctly though, typically the volt-free ones will not be able to start...

I know people get, understandably, confused by the voltages on 3PV's, but what is very, very clever is the 28mm 6-wire zone valve used when converting semi pumped systems to 'C' plan. Unless you saw an internal diagram of the relays, it is completely impossible to understand, at least is is...

Power goes to the grey from either HW off from the programmer or HW satisfied via the cylinder stat.

Wireless programmable room thermostats are very common, but wireless hot water cylinder thermostats are less so and in any event, usually require a twin or single channel programmer. You might be better off with a single channel timer for the hot water, located in the garage and a wireless...

As long as it is a separate terminal and the instructions say it doesn't need to be earthed. The connections are usually N-L-1-2-3-4.

If you require earth continuity for some reason, the terminal provided plays no part in the electrical connections to the programmers contacts. But, as I said before, the instructions will tell you all you need to know.

Most programmers do not require an earth connection. If an earth terminal is provided on the back-plate it is usually purely for the customer use. The instructions should explain this.

Sorry, I quoted the wrong post. Apologies to Agile for any misunderstanding.