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What I mean is, am I really only getting 5c or is the way it reads it flawed?

Reading off the menu display John, would this not be fairly accurate ?

All rads balanced to 12-15C difference, yet no matter what I do (even lowering the pump speed), when I look at the menu system on my WB Si compact 30 it only shows a 5C difference at the boiler ! Thought anyone? Thanks

Yep, definitely.

Hopefully sorted if anyone else may have a similar problem. Removed the bottom bead and noticed there was no way any water could get out to the external concealed drainage holes (I found 3 in the external frame and cleared these with a paper clip just in case). Anyway. drilled a few holes so...

Digital angle finder (or similar) should help but you may find you have to 'alter' all the coving around the ceiling depending on how they look.

Yes that is correct. f the boiler lights for only 5 minutes, then it only has 7 minutes of the ACT TOTAL time left (12-5). it will then look at wether the Hysteresis of 7C has been reached or use up the ACT time remaining if it is longer. Actually in the above scenario the remaining time(s)...

Target flow is 45C, ACT 12 mins and Hysteresis is 7C. No problem at all getting to room temp of 19C although it does take a couple of hours (obviously time will tell with the colder weather to come), we find that temp comfortable for us. It's on from 06:30 until 21:45 with a setback temp of 16C...

If I set it at 2C from an initial obviously long burn then the 10 minute ACT is fulfilled so the boiler would wait for the 2C drop (which would be seconds, I'm guessing maybe 30?), then it would re fire, it would prob hit SP+4 within a few minutes. Say it ran for 3 minutes, then 7 minutes ACT...

It starts from scratch again. It seems very different than say, the Vaillant anti cycle mode. If I set 10 mines ACT and the boiler runs for longer than this (which it obviously does from the first morning start) then no ACT time is left therefore it looks at the hysteresis, which in this case...

No John, whatever is the longer 'wins'. The ACT would only start (code 202) if the ACT total time isn't satisfied by the time the hysteresis drops (i.e the ACT is then obviously longer). Say I set an ACT time of 10 mins, if the boiler fires for say 3 mins then it has 7 minutes remaining BUT if I...

Yes, but the bigger rads don't get satisfied even with balancing the smaller rads.

Don't forget the anti cycle time on mine includes the total time of a full cycle (on/off) so, for me, I prefer to use the hysteresis. i.e. after the initial start up (from cold) even an anti cycle time of 45 minutes would be used up (probably).

Very informative, thank you John. It's really trying to find the happy medium. When I was trying the flow at 55c (which still should have been fairly efficient), the gas use didn't reflect that, I realised the temp hysteresis was set at 6 C so when the boiler hit set point (+4 on mine) it was...

So, with the 'off' times, basically it needs to be long enough so the radiators don't cool down (too much) and this will give a longer burn time until the room stat is reached (eventually). Isn't this a kind of way of range rating ? (as I can't do that with mine)

So which would be an 'average' run time John. If I used the 3600 secs (60 mins) then surely the rads would be too cool and then wouldn't the boiler be firing at a high level again (as it does first thing in the morning, the first burn is very long) and therefore using a high volume of gas. I...

Ok I have a WB 30 Si compact The minimum modulation is just shy of 7kw. My rads are about 9.5 kw in total. I can adjust anti cycle time or temp hysteresis via the menu. I know that unless the outside temps are 0 and below the boiler can't modulate low enough to keep running. What I'm unsure...

Water leak from internal beading, I'm assuming either there is no (concealed?) drainage holes or they're blocked or maybe even the packers are blocking them? If I 'press' the bead, top or bottom, a bit of water comes out. It''s been going on for quite a while, I spent all summer making sure...

Vohnhaus slim bracket for 37- 85 " t.v. It's not the bracket's fault, it's because the plug socket has been placed offset and aligns right where the 200 x 200 VESA brackets fit on the back of the t.v,, hence the bracket locking (long) screws won't fit under the bottom lip because the socket...

Mounting tv to a solid brick, unused, closed off chimney breast. Electricians have put a double socket below and to the left of the wall mounted tv bracket. Upon looking at the brackets that screw to the back of the tv I'm unsure if the socket will be in the way and won't allow the tv to sit...