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Awesome - thank you very much for your prompt reply. As an added bonus I have found a Toolstation near me, I previously used Screwfix as my primary 'go to' for this type of thing.

I have two ELV lights that were, until recently, powered by a small power supply. Both lights failed at the same time and after investigating with a multimeter I found that there is now no voltage output on the secondary terminals of the power supply. There is mains voltage at the input. With...

As a relative newbie I quite often felt afraid to give advice (even where I was quite sure of the answer) due to BAS's constant nit-picking and criticism. My favourite example was: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/what-are-these.407665/ No apology or response I notice!

My father has a similar setup in his dining room. He had a removable ceiling rose fitted to one side of the beam (on the plasterboard) with a supply cable looping to the chandelier. The chandelier then hangs from the metal eyelet (as in your picture). The advantage to this arrangement is that...

He also did this series of videos that was equally cringe worthy. It's one thing carrying out unsafe electrical practices without training/advice but posting them as an instructional video should cause you to get banned from the site.

Only re-iterating Adam's previous point.

If you remove the sticker from the front of the plastic plate alongside the double socket (20160618_085109-jpg) you may find the fuse which can be removed.

Perhaps we could change the thread title to splitting [hairs and] double insulated lighting circuit

The GWX Control Panel utility is frequently updated and will counteract Microsoft's constant changing KB attack plan: http://ultimateoutsider.com/downloads/

What about two of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-1-gang-unswitched-grid-module-white/21218 ;)

But don't use insulation tape.

So just use one of the two sockets (at the original spur) - you will then be protected by the 13A fuse in the plug. No different to changing it to a 13A FCU.

If one of the current plugs that is plugged into the 5 gang adapter feeds the required socket in the utility room you could just connect this plug to the single socket - removing the 5 gang adapter and the additional load. There is no point installing an RCD if there is another RCD in the CU...

I saw this idea on YouTube the other day: Not sure if this is of any use?

Based on your photographs: Wire 3 in the boiler should connect to Common at the Hive (Terminal 1) Wire 4 in the boiler should connect to Heating On at the Hive (Terminal 3)

Unless it is a combined receiver for both HW and CH control (for example the Hive wireless receiver)? It would then need - permanent live - neutral - switched live (hot water) - switched live (central heating)

It would be interesting to take the same measurements for the new Sky Q Silver box. More features but newer tech should mean the consumption is similar or lower.

i agree, the reason I added the '(and I mean completely turned off)' was because other devices with more modest standby requirements can make scheduled recordings because they only rely on a timer - as did the old VCRs. If think the answer is simple (and I don't mean any disrespect by this...

If they were to be turned off (and I mean completely turned off) how would they make the scheduled recordings? Is it any different to an old school VCR being left on/standby?

As others have said it takes on a crystallized consistency. After being allowed to thaw naturally (being used later in the year) it seems to perform as expected - although to be fair I can't comment on longevity.