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Oh when i mentioned that sludge and dirty water can start building up from the very first day the system was put in, thats exactly what i meant :lol: You should be able to just take the head of the stat off and check the pin is free, if not then get someone who can :lol:

Do you mean you have only been having problems with your Domestic Hot water? If so the only type of power flush that would help here is one where you connect to the cold mains inlet to the boiler and the hot water outlet from the boiler and circulate around the DHW heat exchanger A standard...

No what i meant was i read your post as saying you would just seal around the bath after fitting... What i suggested is using silicon at every opportunity whilst fitting the bath to give the extra protection... Put it this way if i got into your bath after you had sealed it i would expect a...

If you were contemplating having a new boiler i would recommend you have a power flush before fitting it ...... So technicaly you are not wasting money... Please think though, because i havent seen your system or seen what happens when it goes wrong i cant realy say wether you need a power...

Ok problem you seem to have is that some of the sludge,scale and crap has found its way to the heat exchanger...... Funnily enough my dads was the same last year, it took me 2 power flushes to solve it..... Second time round is when i bought the pump attachment for my machine and flushed it...

2 years is plenty of time for it to sludge up if the inhibitor wasnt added to begin with....Infact the chemical reactions can start from day 1 especialy if the system had a replacement boiler and the pipes were not correctly flushed out You have bled the radiator? Which valve is the cold...

So presuming you want to hide the pipework after the rad has gone.... If its "flexible" i presume you mean plastic pipe like Hep or the white john guest stuff... Drain down the system Disconnect the rad and trace the pipework back (under the floor?) Probaly find the elbow where the pipe...

I doubt this will be adequate to stop the water leaking... If you are going to go this route then i would lay silicon ontop of the battens and against the wall that the bath butts up against.....might sound like overkill but saves replacing the thin silicon bead around the bath every few months

A power flush done correctly is a good thing. A typical 3 bedroom house will take me a whole day. Each rad individualy flushed and cleaned and checked.... If you are suffering blockages then a power flush done correctly will be a benefit for you... Please dont get a large well known gas...

If you want a good seal around the bath then thats the best option.... And the battens are quite important, even if you just have a short one by the taps and another short one at the other end of the bath...better than nothing....

lol Ok tie ball cock up securely (piece of wood or something across the top and double loop string over ball cock arm and tie properly to the wood Turn mains back on for cup of tea in morning Completely drain heating system down, leaving somewhere open if possible for steam venting...

Is it constantly coming out? Then you need new washers... Does it just run and drip for a little while? This is just emptying out the neck.... If its old taps and you have never replaced the washers then thats what it will be...probaly

I'm slightly confused..is it a sealed system or do you have a F&E tank in the attic which feeds the heating system? If you have the tank in the attic then tie up the ball valve to stop the water filling the tank and filling the heating pipes.. If its a sealed system and the water spurts...

I was much posher and screwed through mine ;-) :lol:

This is probaly a stupid question but why dont you have any water? Arent the pipes you pierced all heating pipes? And the pipe you tryed to blob solder onto probaly had water in it and if this is the case the water steams and blows out of the closest holes...like the one you are trying to cover

I would only charge you £30 and a pint just because of the comical value... Sorry shouldnt take the mick realy......

O my goodness......... Ok one thing at a time........... When trying to break a joint like this the heat needs to be constant all round to melt all the solder.....also try putting some flux on it ...probaly psychological but i think it helps.......you are going to have to be very very carefull...

Gas into room on a room sealed boiler means something isnt sealed anymore... Have you had the chamber cover off? Is the seal in good order? This would cause the boiler to missfire and cause gas into your room which is a bit scary to me....if gas can escape into the room so can the fumes....

If you are asking about bungs and where to put them i dont advise you do it..... Just drain down enough until the water level is below your 3 port....last one i did like that was a bucket and half of water..... That was 2 days ago.....

Neck on the line and i think yes... A few years back my friend had the same problem on his Sime boiler and i had never heard of this boiler lol....changed the diaphragm and all was well with the world..... Does the hot water also run hot and cool?