Search results

From what I understand you have the TV aerial coming into your downstairs lounge, into a booster, and then outputs to lounge TV, kitchen, and a cable going back outside when then re-enters the house in the bedroom? I would suggest buying one or two simple Y-splitters (about £2-£3) to split...

That's what your tongue is for isn't it?! :wink:

but the yanks only have 110 volts, and just cos it's ok over there doesn't mean it does or doesn't meet whatever building regs we have here.

Sorry, I should have said "so why a IP-rated switch is required I'm not quite clear?" If it's just for maintenance then a standard switched FCU would do the job nicely, if it needs to be IP rated then that suggests it's going to be used frequently. (Plus I can't see his wife getting excited...

No he needs an IP rated switch for a waste disposal unit, though JohnD has also recommended a FCU. I don't know anything about waste disposal units, but would have thought it only activated when something is inserted into it, so why a switch is required I'm not quite clear?

if you don't have a multimeter, you could check if the light switch is the problem by bypassing it at the junction box after the 5A FCU. Use a bit of suitable wire to effectively short that part of the circuit out. [Naturally, turn off the power whilst working on the junction box!]

Er no, it's GU10, that's why it says GU10 on bulb!

with ours there is a kinda horseshoe shaped metal ring that goes most of the way round the edge of the bulb, at the ends there are little clips you pinch, then bulb just drops down and you can hold the fitting and twist the bulb out.

halstead best 50, which I believe has a cast iron HE. No idea of age. everytime the landlord sends his "men" round to do something with the system (recently it was banging loudly and the rads wern't getting warm) there is a little pile of rust on the floor underneath it, and as far as I know...

well I aint no expert either, but if this chap doesn't know what he's doing and isn't a corgi registered guy I would suggest getting someone in who is! that said hopefully someone on here will be able to shed some light...

I believe these will do the job: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Security_Menu_Index/Fire_and_Smoke/Fire_Cover_Downlight/index.html

any help on this would be appreciated! it would be nice to get some sleep tonight!!

I turned on the heating again and almost immediately the pitch of the whine increased, then faded out after about 5 seconds.

ok well I fired up the hot water system again and the noise started again after about 15 minutes. I have been up in the loft and the noise does not appear to be coming from anything up there (the pump, actuator, air vents). The feed tank is full as is the expansion tank (no water running into...

fair point! I was rushing to type it all in before I went to work sorry... it's a fan-assisted balanced flue boiler.

This morning we were awoken at 5:10 by the hot water system making a whining noise. (Well to be precise I was awoken by my wife whining about the heating system making a whining noise!) We have a wall-boiler and the hot water system is an indirect one. At this point only the hot water...

Lectrician, maybe but you still aint comparing eggs with eggs. 1mm twin main cable vs 2mm 105 strand oxygen-free copper I know which I would choose for my audio... selfbuildy, 79 strands @ 35p/m + VAT = 0.5p per strand 104 strands @ 69p/m inc VAT = 0.7p per strand "much cheaper"...

Are you saying you can't see the problem with bell wire, or you can't see the problem with spending 69p/m? Certainly you'd be spending 69p/m on 1mm twin flex if you bought if from a high street hardware store.

You're hardly comparing eggs with eggs here. Why on earth are you even mentioning SWA? It's like saying "£10 for 5 litres of Castrol GTX?! You could buy 50 litres of Sunflower oil for that price!" It's meaningless! Fine if you want use an old bit of mains cable, swa, heck even some coax...

There's going to be a massive signal drop over 10m of bell wire, I seriously suggest replacing it with some proper speaker cable, Richer Sounds have a good range of quality speaker cable, starting at 69p a metre, although there are plenty of other places you can buy decent speaker cable.