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I will be considering a my own new connection if once I've fitted all the new pipes and new cylinder I am not happy with result. If I put say 22mm pipes inside running up to cylinder and to bath and shower I guess I could do mains upgrade at a later date if still not good enough right...

I have only tried the cup with one tap in fully which gave me 14. I am planning on a unvented hot water cylinder. Currently my water is shared off the mains with next door. I called with water board to ask what the cost would be for our own connection to the mains and it was estimated as...

I realise now, that the reading I took of 14 is the flow rate. How do I measure the pressure? And would you sa 14 is good enough for a pressurised system to give a good showering experience?

Thank you for correcting me on that, as you can tell I'm still learning a lot about this. I want a water softener fur the reasons mentioned but if my pressure and flue rate is already low I'm worried adding a softener could make it too low for a pressurised system to be viable

I'm having a pressurised system installed but my pressure is already quite low. Reads 14 using one of those cup measuring devices. I'm having a new bathroom and hot water cylinder so I am keen to also get a water softener to ensure the whole system is kept in good condition and lime scale dosent...

I have recently bought a Victorian property which has shared access to a water supply in the back garden. So as I understand it there is a T pipe off the mains which supplies my house and next door. Using a measuring cup (not sure of correct name) I get a reading of 14. My main aim is to get...

Ok. Thanks for your help. I just called technical support again and the chap this time confirm the shutter should go on the outlet quite close to the fan. Default position closed shutter and then open when fan is on. I'll stick it in like this and see how it goes. Thanks for all your advice

The version I have works off a hinge. I'm tempted not to bother with it but I don't want drafts coming into the bathroom

My understanding is that the shutter should be on the output and the default position of the shutter when fan is not in use should be shutter closed. Then when the fan is in use the directional airflow forces the shutter open. The shutter will then close again once the fan is off. However I...

I've looked at this back draft shutter again but I can't work out where to fit it on the ducting. I have an inline fan in the loft. So I have ducting going from the inlet to the fan and then ducting from the fan to the outlet. I don't know whether it's best to put the shutter on the outlet...

Yes I guess I could do this and then put loads of muck around it to hold it in.

Thank you very much

If we are digging a hole about 2 foot deep by about 2 foot wide how many bags of cement and ballast do you think I should buy?

I guess I'm best fitting it right close up to the extractor fan unit so I get maximum power to ensure the shutter opens effectively.

I hope I'm not missing the obvious but is there a correct way round to fit a back draft shutter? I am looking to fit one on the ducting of my bathroom extractor fan

Thank you very much....guess I should have trusted what my family friend said all along then. Thanks for help

Ok thanks, judging by your comments a vibrator isn't an essential tool for this type of work then. A mix which has a bit of air in will still be strong enough. We are going with a 4:1 mix of ballast and cement

I am getting a hand with a small section of underpinning in my celler this weekend from a family friend who does this type if work He tells me a mechanical vibrator isn't necassary but I've read they should be used. Can anyone advise! [/list]

Below is the masonry hanger I plan to fix to one end of the trimmer going into the wall The problem I have is the two hangers that connect the joist to the trimmer clash with the masonry joist. All I can think of is to use an angle bracket and fix on the one side