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Yeah, I have to enter engineer programming to set up the part arm, could you elaborate please?

I couldn't follow your instructions sorry. I chose which area I want off. But there were no other settings I saw about allowing entry exits to be used. When I set the alarm by pressing part, 2, tick, I then opened the front door and alarm when off and displayed the alarm fail Info? Thanks, neil

Thanks, I'll try that. I may need to come back to you :D What exactly does the above change. So it makes sense to me. Thank you

Apologies, Texecom Ricochet Premier Elite 48-W

Hi. Thanks for helping. I've set a night time part set which excludes all PIRS minus the front and back door, that works fine. I've just tried to set a 2nd part set to exclude one PIR where my cats sleep but I still want to leave by the front door so want the guard PIR in hallway and the front...

I have screed'd a 1x4ft area of floor where chimney used to be, rest of room is floorboards, I'm laminating the whole room with the green underlay pads, someone suggested I should seal it with unibond or wood glue? Do I need to? Unibond is £20 and it's a small area, I was wondering if its worth it?

Photo of my pot..

That's reassuring to hear, thank you

To remove the pot (picture is like the one I've got), clean up, reseal and replace the pot, re-point the chimney breast where pointing has fallen out, re-point the full ridge caps (most are loose and have no pointing), re-point the bridge ridge caps and clean the guttering, £180. No idea if...

Had a guy came round to take a look and the chimney pot lifted out of the chimney with ease, the pot had a 1cm gap all around it and that must be where the water is coming in. Resealing should help hopefully.

Sorry I was replying to my original post about people saying vents for the bottom, but the chimney is open. Also, does removing pots and capping off with slate sound the way to do it? (Chimney pots would never be used again. Also one pot seems wonky on the top of the chimney. Had one person...

The chimneys are open bottomed in the loft supported adequately.

Hi, I've had to use my builder and rated people website to find a roofer to cap my chimney off, it's letting rain water in. How much would I expect this to roughly cost so I don't get ripped off? I'm in the Midlands. Thanks

That's a good point, using wooden posts cut to the angle of the concrete would work.

Great ideas, thanks

Brilliant, sounds like my situation. So at the 3x2 end, are the joists resting on the concrete or bits of slabs for water run off? How did you raise the frame off the ground on the concrete?

Decking, I need to build 6m x 4m decking, however the concrete patio it's going on is slanted from the level it needs to be from 3inches one end to 8inches the other, using 4x2 joists won't work due to the 3inch depth, what are my options? (no I can't remove concrete base) Thank you

What's the best way to level this out, we'll be slate tiling it at a later date, I just need it level for now. Self-leveling compound seem to be like liquid and it'd seep down in the cracks near floor boards. Can I just use a mortar mix? Thanks

I inspected from the inside of the wall and it was not touching the staircase. Removed, job done.

Removing a wall under a stairs, I want to remove just the triangle bit, I looked under the floor broads and the wall does NOT go through the floor boards, it rests on top. It's big block work. Is it as simple as just knocking it out? Thank you