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Proving the dno is liable will be tricky, unless a lot of people locally have the same issue. I was called to old teachers home who`s old c/heat timer stopped working, happened just after transformer on opposite street burst into flames.

The internal lip is between 5-10mm wide. Other option is to unscrew cooker hood from wall( are fixings accessible?), you would be able to clear grout around its edges, then work it forward away from the wall(set up something to support it below, supply cable will stop you dropping to worktop)...

Did by cheap one from s/fix, tlc or toolstation, bought 2 from hilti 1 x 4-20mm, 1 x 10-40mm, not used to often, but nice and sharp.

That was pre battery/cordless drills, now use this and finish with file for opening existing holes.

or the old fashioned way.

If one of the existing knockouts is not large enough for supply cables to enter, enlarge the hole.

Your pretty much *ucked by tiler & guy who did coving probably under someone else`s instructions. The sides of chimney have to come out sideways(chimney internal return edge) to get away from internal bracket and hood. Looks like you will have to remove small tiles at sides of hood.

If the motorized valve`s micro switch has its perm live & boiler switchwire, manually opening the lever will fire the boiler, as long as central heating spur is not switched off. The programmer back plate would still be live.

Why ask for suggestions?.

Din rail & terminal blocks

Knock £200 off your price & then get it checked, guys sparkies issue seems to be cable size only, make sure the cable isn`t covered in insulation.

Why would you need to lift carpet. Do the lights have individual transformers, remove blown lamp and replace. If that fails remove light fitting and swap transformer.

You sure it wasn`t 300 ohms?, what wattage is the element?.

Switch off the FCU and pull on each twin & earth core.

The live 2.5mm is damaged just where it comes out of external sheath, you can see the black scorch marks.

Probably because the 13a plug stops the fridge going all the way back.

Those look like the kit some superstores sell, 1-transformer(usually bigger than the lights cutout) linked to 3 lights, i had to replace 1 in the past, pulled on lead to get transformer to the cutout, then pulled on the transformers supply flex to get jointbox to cutout, luckily i only had to...

No worries mike.

Mike bottom of Rcd is the load, which you said was 200s.

I would be inclined to test shower circuit before power was reconnected to it.