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Ok thanks. I'll give it a go.

Thanks everyone. But as I said, looking for a fix without removing the rad. (And do those plastic bits fit old radiators? Suspect this one dates from the eighties, and yes I know it should probably be replaced.)

I have a radiator that has started clicking due to expansion/contraction. It is one bracket causing it. Any trade tricks to cure this without removing the radiator? I did wonder about silicon spray?

The last one sounds like danfoss ras-c2.

The BDR91 relay can bind with up to four thermostats/timers. So you could add a CM927, and keep the existing DTS92 thermostat which would effectively operate as an override if the room it is in gets too cold.

Still can't see why this illegal and dangerous work is required if there really is a suitably sized and functioning UPS installed. ***Moderators note*** This thread is now closed. I’m not going to allow anyone else to waste their time replying to someone who has no interest in the advice being...

The only real difference I can see is the manufacturer of the relay (red on mine). Can you read the part number of the PCB adjacent to e large blue object? Both units have part numbers of R6660D. I'm pretty certain that Physically my unit will fit your back plate.

Removed this one last weekend. Working fine. Display had failed in CM927 PM if you are interested. Certainly would not expect £70 for it!

Thanks. Any view on flattening the varnish and then priming with something like Zinsser BIN or an equivalent (if there is one)? I don't fancy sanding off the varnish on panelled doors

All our internal doors have been varnished a deep mahogany colour. We are looking to a more modern look, so the doors will not look right. The doors are good quality, fit well, and have no blemishes. Am I wasting my time even considering painting them? Thanks

Bit a of a long shot this one, but does anyone know where I might be able to obtain a Pegler AD3 TRV adaptor (or three)? Pegler no longer make them, but someone might have some stock or one in their spares box. They are probably 3D printable if I can find one to copy (or a drawing). Thanks

Thanks. Will do. He also stated that the volume of the set confirmation tone (the double tone after 15 seconds silence) is not controlled by the chime setting, but by the exit setting.

To follow up - engineer out this afternoon. Volume was set to 3, reduced to 2 but still very loud. Going to change the speaker.

Thanks. Can someone point me at a programming manual for a euro mini. I can find lots of user and installation manuals, but no links for a programming one.

Sounds good (no pun intended). Can you tell me the complete set of options?

I've just had my trusty old panel replaced with a Pyronix Mini, and the exit sounds are far too loud. Before I call the maintainers back, what options do I have? Can I have different volumes for set, set confirmation, and entry? The set confirmation needs to be loud (to get through one...

Ok. Thanks Will try and get the maintenance man for the complex to take a look tomorrow.

As I said, can't locate a frost stat, and I can account for all the wiring coming out of the wiring centre. This is a retirement complex, so no garages, lean to or similar. The whole complex is so hot, there is very little chance of anything freezing up, even if left empty.

Thanks. If the rads are still getting hot, does this indicate the issue is likely to be with the heating valve, rather than the water one? The problem does seem to be intermittent, which leads me away from a wiring issue (but I'm not dismissing the idea).

My parents have just moved into a retirement flat, and it seems that the heating has a mind of its own. Hopefully someone can give me ideas on where the problem might lie. Boiler is Baxi, about 15 years old. It looks like the controls may have been updated recently, as there is a Honeywell...