Search results

Hi, it looks like it has a TN-S earthing system and that braided earth cable from the incoming sheath looks a bit old & thin to me. So probably needs a new earth clamp & 16mm cable adding from the sheath to the Earth terminal block on the right and also new 16mm earth cable from that to the CU...

Yes I've just noticed that earth bonding. It looks too thin to me, should it be 16mm to meet current regs assuming it goes from the conduit pipe into the CU at the back ?

He just checked and it looks like the cable is fitted correctly and its just a score mark around it

Good spot. Maybe the guy who just fitted the isolator relaced all the supply cables and did that. Report it as a H&S issue ? Thanks

My son has just moved into a '60's house and is looking to get an EV car and wants the charge point on a post on his driveway instead of on his house so the charging cable isn't likely to trip people up. So presumably the post will be connected to the house via 6mm SWA underground and then...

No its the hub, you can see the brake disc just behind it. It's been on the car unprotected for years so lots of surface rust. I presume it's mild steel ?

when I said elongated I meant elongated ! That's one of the new studs just to show the butchering job they did. To be honest this is just a little project. If it works out, fine, if not I'll try to find new hubs

I never thought of that, yes much better, thanks (y)

thanks guys, the hub is off and using maths & a mic I have scribed an arc from the outside edge where the PCD should be. I am going to refit the hub back to the axle and spin it to check the arc is correct with the mic from the centre of the axle just incase the outer edge of the hub isn't...

thanks John, I never really understood why they called them Jobber bits other than their lifespan was probably limited ? The job: I'm repositioning wheel studs in the hub of a classic car. Some egit removed the original studs, elongated the holes and loosely put the studs back in so he could...

I need to buy a 12.7mm bit as biggest bit I have is 10mm. I'll be drilling upto 8 of these holes. Will a Jobber bit be ok if lubricated, or should I buy Tungsten. Doubt I need Cobalt ? Its a 1-off job not a regular workshop thing. Thanks

Great, will do, many thanks

Hi, I want to drill a 12.7mm hole in 3/8" steel plate. I have drilled a pilot 3mm hole to begin with. My question is #1 on the amateur scale of dumb questions .... should I drill gradually going up in size, eg 4, 6, 8, 10mm finishing off with the 12.7mm or go straight onto the 12.7mm drill...

Hi John, you're right it has a fair bit of bhp, It's running a 2.0 Pinto, Turbo with fuel injection. And to be honest it only goes out a couple of times a year which is why I've never done anything about it before. I can't see the engine moving more than normal when static and revving but then...

I agree, has to be something in that area ? Dya know if diff lash be measured in situ or is it a diff out job .. that would be my last check anyway

No it isn't, standard shell with no additional bracing but with rose jointed strut tops and adjustable TCA's. Bodywork is fine, If the strut tops were moving it'd crack the paint wouldn't it ? which it hasn't and this is just normal road use only not race or rally

I have a modified rear wheel drive Ford Escort MK2 and it has severe scuttle shake whenever I lift off the throttle while still in gear. Typical scenario: I am accelerating down the road to say 60 mph, lets say in 5th gear although it could be any gear, and all is fine Car pulls well, no...

So I took the bumper off and applied heat from my Heatgun on the rear of the bumper then pressed it out and held it till it cooled. Did same with a little bit on the front face to finish but not as much as on the back. The bumper is split so there's not much I can do about that but it's better...

Yeah I think the first thing is to have a quick look behind and see where the metal support is and how much room there is to work. I've seen a youtube showing how to remove the bumper and it's not a big job. Some people recommend using hot water to warm the plastic then push from behind, others...

No not his 1st car, He's asking me to sell it for him and thinks the dent will affect the price