Search results

Marginally cheaper then the Ei 141 however you'll need either a patrass or a dry lining pox to house your connections. How much extra will that cost you? I estimate an extra £1-£2 which makes them dearer then the others already suggested. As i've already said the patrass makes the whole unit...

I find the original question worrying as i'm sure some others do. You need to do R1+R2, insulation resistance, Zs tests on every circuit. You also have to do RCD, PSCC and Ze tests as well. To even consider not doing some of these tests when changing a consumer unit is frankly appalling. Here's...

The one in the picture is the 144 which is a heat alarm. They're always ugly because of the snout (not a technical term) housing the thermistor. The 141 is the ionising smoke alarm which is far better looking because it doesn't have the snout and i think they are slightly shallower. Best thing...

The AICO Ei 140 Series is the best as they are a bit slimmer then the rechargable lithium jobs. By far the most aesthetically pleasing smoke and heat alarms on the market IMO especially since they don't require a patrass which so many other alarms do.

Simple way of doing it is to make sure the circuit is switched off and safe to work on. Get your multi meter out and put it on the continuity setting (low ohms). I assume you have 3 cables there so pull forward the socket that the appliance is plugged in to (the one fed from the load side of the...

Minor works and notification is required as your extending a circuit and it's outside (special installation). How many lights are already on this 15A circuit? I take it is wired in 2.5mm cable.

Let me just clarify something. Did you connect the new GU10 fittings to the output on the transformer because you didn't realise it was there? If this is the case then they wouldn't have worked since the transformer drops the voltage to 12V and GU10's are 240V lamps. Is there just one...

Depends how you decide to do it. You could run them all of one transformer if you wanted but that's not really common practice these days. A transformer on each light is the method i use as in the event of a transformer failure only one light will go out. You do realise that this work comes...

This is another another option. Maybe better then the other alternatives as it uses your original tv remote. Atleast that way you don't have an extra remote to potentially lose down the back of the sofa! :wink:

They obviously tested that one well! :lol: Connections can get damaged when rattled about between the manufacturer and the wholesaler it's just unfortunate that you've now got the ball ache of taking them back.

The obvious thing to do is take them back to where you bought them and get them replaced. Will be a lot easier then trying to work out why it isn't working. I've had it before where the manufacturer forgot to put one of the wires in that went to the lamp holder so you never know what could be wrong.

The fitting could easily be earthed though the choc box i suggested would provide the additional insulation between the connections from the fixed installation to the fitting.

How about one of those pneumatic stair way switches. They would be constantly pushing it on for a few minutes of light. Guarantee they'll be asking for the old switch back and promising to switch it off when they leave the room! :lol:

You tell him BAS! :lol: Now is that a fire engine or an ambulance i can here?!

You must have small fingers to not touch both pins! :lol:

I would say it's possible to fit them but it won't be easy. It looks like they're designed to be plugged in rather then hard wired. I would suggest chopping a choc box in the wall to house your connections as it will also take any strain that could possibly be put on the flex going to the...

Not a bad price IMO. The electricity board don't really like you cutting their seals. Best thing is to get him to come on the same day as the fuse changers and get them to fit an isolator while they're upgrading the fuse.

Accuracy. If you don't null (zero) the test leads when you measure the resistance of your circuit you will also be measuring the resistance of your leads at the same time giving a false/inaccurate reading.

Regarding point 3 which you've made in another post, doesn't this only apply to the surface the lamp is projecting light on to. The manufacturers instructions on non fire rated recessed lights is an air gap of 100mm from the rear of the lamp and atleast 20mm from the edge of the fitting to any...

Don't worry, i'm well aware of the difference between the two. Not entirely sure why i made the last comment but i'm sure it was something to do with 5 hours sleep and a 12hr day. :lol: