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Needed a new doorbell to replace my old skool push with chime so I've order a Ring Video Doorbell Wired. The existing wiring is still in place - I've removed the box that contained the chime and connected the wiring from the transformer to the bell push side directly. The transformer is...

It's possible, I suppose. Never thought of that.

OK, ta. I'll have a look at the second option - and maybe resort to the first. You're probably right that it's been there for years, and I'd be none the wiser if I hadn't gone up the loft today to find out what was banging in the wind, leaned on the wall and it moved!

Push it over? Or fix it in some way? Is there something I can squirt in along the length of the crack? I was wondering about Soudal expanding foam - coz I have half of one left over from another job.

What's bothering more than anything is that I can move a whole section of the wall just by pressing with my finger.

I was guessing it was settlement. When it's safe to go outside without getting blown away I'll go and check whether there's a crack in the external brickwork.

That's a good question - I don't know. Is there a way to tell the difference?

Been in the loft today and noticed on one gable end a long crack in the breeze block inner skin. The crack goes through the middle of some blocks, not just down a joint. On one side of the crack I can move the blocks (about 3 or 4 courses worth) just by pressing with my finger. I don't think...

Thanks, but mine's the old style Drayton acl that doesn't have a removable actuator (well not easily) - not like the new style snap-on ones. Drayton tell me that installing the new style actuator instead means draining the system, so I assume that means replacing the actual valve part as well...

I must admit to having lost a bit of momentum. We still have heating because I can activate it manually with the lever so my "users" are happy. I've convinced myself that the problem is with the circuitry on the PCB - whether it's a faulty microswitch or some other component - because I don't...

Thanks for that. I'd like to remove the circuit board from the valve but haven't worked out how to do it yet. I know that both switches click when moving the valve manually all the way to the CH only position (SW1 first and then SW2) but I don't suppose that tells me much.

OK will do, but I currently have "users" complaining that it's cold so it'll be tomorrow. I've done the manual lever thing to get the CH on for now. I did have a look inside the valve again. I suppose I learnt a bit more - hadn't realised before that the manual lever only moves the valve to...

OK. I shall have to dig out some wire from the shed (which isn't easy if you've seen my shed currently). In the meantime, I'm back to thinking about the microswitches in the valve. I'm no expert, obviously, but I've watched JW's excellent video on YouTube The circuit seems fairly simple. He...

Here's the wiring. FYI, I've just re-checked what I did yesterday. I've had the power off while I took the photo, so the valve went back to the default HW position. I've turned the power back on, CH is set to ON on the programmer, the thermostat is calling for heat but the motor is stuck at...

Sure. I'll take a pic shortly. Mind you, nothing's changed in the wiring - it's been the same forever.

Yes, I understand that it's the unpowered position - took me a while to get there. Clutching at straws I suppose, wondering why it won't move from that position.

I'm impressed (and grateful) that any of you are responding at this time of night!

Thanks. Thing is, I don't think the motor is ever getting 230V to move it from the HW position - even when white and grey inputs are both 230V. Although I will have to check that tomorrow to make sure. Could that be a microswitch issue, if the motor is just "holding" at the HW position?

Will do, but it'll be tomorrow. Thanks for your help and goodnight.

Yes, it's really difficult to move the lever - if I push hard I can move it really, really slowly and eventually get there. I don't know how powerful the motor is (4W or something?) but I can believe it would struggle. It could be that the old motor was OK after all. I just went for the...