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Can't help with the boiler problem, sounds like a divertor valve to me, but you could turn some radiators off if you're too hot.

My guess is that the there is an F&E tank for the heating and a Fortic for the domestic water - combined break tank and indirect cylinder. Domestic water not hot in this case is usually due to airlocked coil. There should be a manual air vent on the pipework near the coil connections to the...

I think I've got the same type of anorak as Thumb! I've got catalogues and text books going back more than a century. I'm still looking out for a screw with an Armstrongs Patent Improved Machine Thread in 17/32" with a square head and a reduced shank. Anyone got a link to the appropriate...

Years ago I visited a friend who lived in a bedsit - I couldn't work out why there were three connections to a radiator: bottom opposite ends and one of the top connections. This had a barrel ni-pple graunched in with an MF elbow and 1/2" steel pipe going up through the ceiling. Being...

If it is just the vent insert that has sheared - the small square headed bit in a recess - then you should be able to undo the whole vent plug ~ 3/4" ish hexagon and put a new one in with a bit of ptfe tape. Alternatively, if there is a blanked boss at the other end of your radiator you could...

Well done for sorting it out. But, it is likely to happen again, so be prepared! Pumps are not that expensive so it could be worth changing it anyway, or, if it's muck settling in the pump body you may wish to consider flushing the system.

I'm sure someone will give you a definitive answer, but I would have though you could line the 'C' shaped holder with Scandura - mineral fibre rope used for door and inspection cover seals to combustion chambers, also used as sealants for some balanced flue boiler casings I believe. I would...

I would tie the float (ball) valve up or isolate the water supply, flush the loo then remove the remaining water - I use an old towel and and a bucket then take both fixings out and replace the rubber washers. You may get away with just cleaning the rubbers and the surfaces but for the cost of...

.... and before you slacken the valve connections, open the air vent at the top of thee radiator; it will reduce the spluttering and spraying of gloopy black smelly stuff all over your new three piece suite!

I wouldn't be choosing a combi for your intended use but it seems that you have made your mind up. You'll find plenty of discussion here about the gas pipework sizing to make the larger ones work properly. Veissmann boilers are generally very good (at least their commercial/industrial ones...

The back boiler should be heating your domestic water (the stuff that comes out of the taps) indirectly using a coil inside a hot water cylinder. The rusty water could be from a couple of sources. Firstly, you probably have a storage tank in the loft which feeds the cylinder - you should have...

If it's not leaking you could leave it in place and fit a new bush and air vent on the other end of the rad. You may need to reset the brackets or pack out one end to give a slight uphill angle to the new valve position.

How low (height)? How high (output)? You could put a few passes of finned tube into a ventilated box - that would give a reasonable output, but would look fairly horrid. multiple column radiators, say 300mm x 300mm high will give a good output but will cost a lot. A 283mm high double...

Mr Pedant, I don't dispute that it will work, after a fashion. I wasn't intending to argue with you - we were both typing at the same time. I don't install systems, I only design them, so I'll bow to your superior knowledge. I'll just add that single pipe systems work best with very slow...

Do you REALLY have a single pipe system in a house. This would be fairly unusual after 1950's. Single pipe circuits are characterised by large bore pipework (for a Bermuda; 1" circuit) and large radiator connections and valves (I've seen 1 1/4" radiator valves on BIG radiators in schools...

Sounds like torx screws - widely used in automotive industry under the pretext of allowing smaller screws to transfer more fixing pressure by allowing more torque to be applied to the screw head than a similar sized socket head (Allen) or cross head (Phillips, pozi etc) - In reality the heads...

I'm assuming that after a while the flow from the overflow stops or reduces to a dribble, if so it is expansion. As the water in the cylinder is heated it expands. There are only four places it can go: 1 out of a tap 2 up the open vent 3 up the cold feed 4 through the cylinder wall ie leak...

I'm with Chris on this, but if you want to proceed then stainless tube is available from BSS (branches all over the place) or other stockholders. The tube and fittings are commonly available as schedule 10 (thin wall) and schedule 40 (not so thin wall) . The problem is that the tube is in 6m...

Further tought - Is the immersion heater on or on timed operation? if so check that the integral thermostat in that is working. Sorry if this is insullting your intelligence but it's one that I'vee missed before!

Firstly, yes, your heating water and hot water are effectively the same stuff, normally separated by an air bubble, the discolouration is just oxides and precipitated solids, nothing too nasty but it smells a bit. There should be no nasty chemicals as primatic systems should never be dosed with...