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If the digital/pump unit is getting water & it's not airlocked then it does sound faulty. Some Aqualisa digital showers (I know the Visage does) have a no quible 5 year guarantee, If there's a problem with it they should get their engineer to fit a new box for you for free.

I'd deffinatly go for the locking ones :oops:

Any Potterton EP programmer should just clip onto the backplate without the need for re-wiring - you can get them from any decent plumbers merchant for about £50. If you're competant at electrics, L - live 1 - HW off 2 - CH off 3 - HW on 4 - CH on

Forgot to say, Salamander do a negative head "add on" kit, you might be able to fit this to the existing pump. I would phone them and ask rgds

I would think it's easiest to just get a neg head pump - although they're quite expensive.

A lot of mixer showers can be quite restrictive. Measure (into a jug or something) how many litres per minute of water you get from the shower, for hot and cold seperately with the pump switched off. It should say in your pump instructions how many lpm the flow switch needs to work properly...

But check the filters first as advised by Seco Svs.

Take the handle off the temperature mixing side of the shower mixer and you should be able to adjust the temp setting. If that gets the temperature back up then order a new thermostatic cartridge from Bristan, when it goes again change the cartridge.

Buy a multimeter or get someone in !

Have you just installed it, or has it been working and just started doing this ? (ie-has it ever worked properly)

some older valves used relays and had 6 wires - your old one could have been one of these. To wire up the newer 5 wire type, you might be better speaking to Honeywell for advice, as depending how your system is wired you might have to run a hw off wire from the programmer and swap some wires...

Sounds like the accumulator is not large enough. regards

You could try the following people - but bear in mind the parts aren't new they are recon. www.cetltd.co.uk regards

Sounds like you've topped up the pressure in your heating circuit using the filling loop ? This won't have anything to do with pressure & flow from taps. All the same glad to hear its sorted itself out. regards

Why not split the difference and fit an unvented cylinder, so you get mains pressure hot and cold and also an airing cupboard. - as long as your water supply is good enough. regards

Meant to add - are you any good with a multimeter ?

No heating could be heating pump on boilermate not running Boiler noises sounds like boiler pump on boilermate not running This all suggests to me the Boilermate control board is duff. As suggested by gas4you and idealno1 a flashing L & E is boiler pcb fault so you you might be unlucky...

Could you still get hot water after the heating stopped ?

Depending what your water pessure & flow is like, you could put an unvented cylinder in the loft and get power shower like performance without buying a pump.

I seem to remember that 15mm supply pipe is the minimum allowed, although maybe not recommended. So the plumber may not have done anything legaly wrong. I'm interested to know what position your neighbour has taken on all this ? regards