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Do as Hugh Jaleak says, and if you are getting power ok during off peak times, test the resistance across the immersion element pins - between 18 and 20 ohms is a fairly good indication element is ok - below this and element is either shot or on way out soon. If element tests ok then look...

Is it possible that all the supply pipe is not made of lead ? If some of it is plastic pipe and a squeeze off tool has been used then this can have an affect on flow rate , especially if it's older black plastic pipe that doesn't regain it's true shape completely. Just a thought.

Hi DP, Quite possibly it does have contacts, but it doesn't have a microswitch that sends power to the boiler & pump. The call for heat from the roomstat goes to the relay in the control box (not the mid pos valve) The relay then sends power to boiler/pump and mid pos valve

You should have a pressure reducing valve then (if you don't then you need one). If you can find where it is you need to find a tap or outlet that is "before" the reducing valve, maybe a garden or kitchen cold tap and measure how many litres per minute you are getting. Then see how many...

The actuator doesn't have a microswitch on these. Control box does it all Although it's possible to wire around the relay when fitting a 3 way valve (with microswitch) in my experience once the relay goes the pcb in the control box will follow it shortly, after all they have to be at least...

Whats the make and model of the cylinder ? Can you post a picture ?

What make & model of cylinder is it ? If it's unvented it should have a reducing valve, often alongside the cylinder but it could be somewhere else.

If noises are being caused by boiler getting too hot,turning the boiler pump to a higher speed should increase the flow through the boiler, and it should help to cool it a bit.

Do you have a kitchen or outside tap that is fed from the "mains" - ie before the water has gone through your pressure reducing valve? If you do, then get a bucket or kitchen jug and work out roughly how many lites per minute of water you are getting.

Hi DP, In my experience it's the relay in the Duoflow control box that plays up. I think microswitch's must have just been a dream in those days. rgds

Wouldn't it be cheaper to make up with your son and let him back into his room ?

Why not go the whole hog and turn both pumps up to 3 - if problem stops try turning each one down bit by bit.

Just out of interest, what setting was boiler (lower) pump on ?

Has the boiler pump setting been changed ? I think it needs to be on as fast a setting as possible, while giving a certain temperature difference between boiler flow & return. I have a manual somewhere and will look it up. rgds

Are both valves open on pump you changed ?

The Duoflow system used to have a grey metal control box. If it's got this it's more than likely going to be the relay inside that has gone. It might be easier to remove the Duoflow control box, fit a normal mid pos valve and wire up as y plan. regards

You could use some of these, (Screwfix Item no 93675) http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=ZNTP1FUKGWDGQCSTHZPCFEY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=93675&searchbutton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0&searchbutton=submit

Can't really see from the picture but try looking at lunns.net as they've got lots of photos & dims for tap valves under the spares area. Hope this helps ps - I'm nothing to do with Lunns!

Can you post a picture ?

It's likely that the stat's failing, but just resetting the safety cut out wont fix the problem. If the electrician can't work out whats causing the safety stat to trip then your sister might be wise to call someone who is familiar with unvented cylinders. regards