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Dear Chri5, 'Please confirm the blue and brown were the cores of the cable flex to the water heater and that the black and red were the supply cables.' - That's correct. With regards to the water heater, it is indeed intergrated in to the central heating system, and is controlled by...

Dear all, I’ve just moved in to a new place and noticed that the neon switch controlling the water heater was cracked and broken, I therefore decided to replace it. I went to a DIY store and bought an identical replacement. After turning off all the power to the house (the neon light at the...

thanks for the reply - I don't really want to use dot and dab as the wall is uneven...but if the principle is the same, I should therefore be able to attach wooden battons directly to the brick wall and then attach the plasterboard to these? (without doing anything to the walls i.e. cement?)...

Dear all, I have a non-cavity brick wall as the end of terrace wall in my house. The inside plaster was falling away (due to an open chimney which was blocked off downstairs but not capped off on the roof! - I've sinced capped off the chimney, stripped back all the loose plaster and cement...

Fair enough! Thanks for the replies.

There's an area (about the size of a 10 pence piece) on the lower back corner of one of my rads from which the paint of the rad has peeled away. This area has now developed a slow leak - about a drop every two hours. My question is, can I repair the rusty/damaged area or is it time for a new...

Thanks a lot doitall and Softus, cleaned everything, soldered on a new elbow, used a bit of compound on the compression......no leak! Thanks yet again for your time and advice. (That would be another thread Gigs)

Sorry what I meant was....I've just removed the street elbow from where it was soldered. It's left a solder coating on the original pipe. After cleaning this up and before re-soldering a new elbow on to it, should I be able to see the copper colour itself, or do I need to clean/file it just...

Also, do ALL traces of the solder coating have to be removed, i.e. should I be able to see the copper coming thru or, can I remove as much so as that the new nut and olive can slide onto it?

I've taken the old elbow off, like you said Softus, it's left a solder coating which I'll now remove. with the elbow joint and the compression joint in my hand, I placed the nut and a new olive over the pipe with a bit of compound, did it up 'a bit', pushed the pipe all the way in, did it up...

The jointing compound worked for one of the two street elbows meaning that, in theory, the street elbow is long enough to be held leak free in a compresion joint, however, the second of them couldn't be sorted in such a way. I unscrewed everythig replaced the olive, used jointing compound, but...

Dear doitall and softus - You're both great and I greatly appreciate your help. I'd prefer to do it Softus' way as I already have the tape - however, once slightly tightened I don't really want to untighten the nut and apply tape to the olive as the nut won't go back far enough due to the...

It's a Yorkshire fitting with a solder ring on one end (which I soldered ok and it doesn't leak) and it's flush on the other end, which is the end I'm having problems with, becuase when I insert this into a compression joint it leaks. So what I'll do now is, remove the PTFE tape from the...

It's a Yorkshire fitting. I'll use the jointing compound before trying anything else.

Thanks Softus. (Hindsight is a wonderful thing wiggikins!)

- Yes, it doesn't reach all the way into the compression joint. i.e. is it better to solder on an extra length onto the male part which, even when the olive and nut are on it, still manages to reach all the way into the compression.

thanks for the reply and the advice. I know that the male part doesn't reach all the way into the compression joint. - Actually, it does on it's own, but it doesn't once the olive and the nut are on the male part, because the nut now gets in the way. I'm sure it's this which is causing the...

Dear all, after soldering a piece of 22 mm copper pipe into the female end of a 90 degree street elbow I tried fitting the other end (male) into a compression fitting. This part of the joint now leaks. I un-screwed the nut, wrapped some PTFE tape around the thread and re-tightened. It still...

because, 'It's not possible to use a conventional pipe cutter or the blade of a junior hacksaw due to the position of the pipe'.

Has anybody been successful with cutting through a 22 mm copper pipe with a wire saw? (It's not possible to use a conventional pipe cutter or the blade of a junior hacksaw due to the position of the pipe). Any past experiences of such matters would be much appreciated. Regrads, John