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Hi all I have recently boarded out a room (with lots of help of these forums), and Im about ready to start plasterboarding it. Ive never boarded out before, so this is going to be a learning curve for me. Im a few dozen videos into that learning! Last thing I want to do is make life harder...

Thanks for the advice guys... well...apart from the guy who said it was a motor rake and the guy that said I was looking at the wrong end. A managed to disconnect it by basically lumping it with a big hammer. I took it back to the hire shop today and they said it was missing the little wedge...

Hi guys. Pretty desperate on this one .... I've hired a pretty hefty hammer drill in order to get through a wall but only of the drill for one night. I've used it for 5 minutes with the short extension in order to start the hole but when I've come to swap it out for the longer extension these...

Thanks guys appreciated. I ended up heat gunning a cable tie onto the end...did the trick.

So I'd appreciate some help from anyone who knows about drills and drill bits. I've ordered a drill bit that 600 millimeters long but it doesn't have a circular end so it won't fit securely into my drill. The chuck doesn't tighten as well as it does with a fully circular drill bit. You can...

Just to upate this thread with results; Went down the route of hooking up a hose pipe onto the 22mm flow pipe (via a reducer). Closed all the valves and let it go. Had 2 dribbles, which just needed a little nip-up. Once the water stopped flowing, I let some air out via the last...

That makes sense!! Good point.

gotcha....thank you.

thanks. Ive got my rad valves so ill put those on. how would you evict the air out the pipes....I assume just open the valves and then close them once water comes out?

Yeah ive read a few people mention that. Dont really fancy being in the same room as half a dozen potentially leathal projectiles that could launch at any moment. Dont really want a window smashing, or my head getting a hole in it. Sounds like water is the way to go.

Thank you, ill do that. There is no boiler in place yet.

Great thanks.....this maybe a daft question, but how do you connect to hose to the flow/returns? Id have thought any sort of temporary connection is going to fail way before the copper joints show signs of leaks?

I suppose what Im trying to avoid is wasting the plumbers time....he is a friend doing it for me, so I dont really want him hanging around if he fits the boiler and then we find leaks. Is there any reliable method to fill the pipes and rads with water, as a comparable pressure to a boiler?

I'm in the process of laying pipework from a new heating system.....prior to the plumber coming to install the boiler. I was thinking about capping the ends off once Im finished, and buying a pressure tester. The tester will probably be ebayed after this, as Im only likely to use it once...so...

Well that provoked an earth shattering silence.

So based on the feedback Ive decided to do some calculations. I must admit, Ive had 6 houses over the years, and had the heating system either installed from scratch or by qualified plumbers. I must have had 10+ rads added to the systems at various points too..... honestly, I dont think ive...

Awesome thread hijacking.

I'm just in the process of laying some 22mm flow and return piping in an extension. Is there a standard practice in terms of the length of 15 mm pipe going to your radiators. It's going to make the job a lot easier if I run the 22 mil in a large rectangle around the room roughly one meter...

I'm about to start work on a building a sub floor. Old barn which currently has a concrete floor. I just have a question about the cupporting joists. Im laying 4x2s, which will have OSBs on top. Under these I'll be laying the central heating 22mm pipes. I have treated timber base supports...

Gottcha yup makes sense. Actually fitting these door stops flat, covers the gap anyway....so I dont think I have an issue.