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Cheers. What I don't understand is if it's for intumescent strips, why have they included wood to fit into the grooves. Hopefully the pics make sense.

That's what I thought to be honest..just not sure how these are covered with the architrave....hopefully the pics make sense.

Two pics here which hopefully demonstrate. Pic one with the wood inserted into the groove, and pic 2 showing the groove. This was the product I bought... Here https://www.diy.com/departments/metsa-wood-redwood-pine-internal-door-lining-set-h-210cm-x-w-13-2cm/73550_BQ.prd

I've recently installed a door lining kit from b&q. I'll be honest, getting it plumb perfect took me near enough 5 hours. Having never installed one I didn't wonder why there was a groove on the entire length, both sides and across the top. Included in the kit are 3 thin strips of wood that fit...

yup, thats where Im at. My question is, is it standard practice to go through the studs, or put a groove on the studs to run over them.

Ive just finished work on a stud wall, and have installed insulation between the studs. Im now thinking about wiring, before the polly sheet and plasterboard go on. The studs are 90mmx45mm, and the insulation is recessed by a few CM to allow the cables to sit on top between the plasterboard...

This is exactly the solution I was looking for, especially as it's all in one! Perfect Thanks. Is it acceptable to create a cut-out in the insulated boards to house these, and place in the top 150mm safe zone?

Right now its a stud wall with no plasterboard. So Id be putting the join in the top 15 cm safe zone.

Hi Guys Im currently stud walling a room, and in the process want to move some sockets around. I just had a question about maintainance free junction boxes, going behind a stud wall. Where I need to move a socket 50cm or so, and the cable isnt long enough, can someone advise me if THIS is an...

Do you mind me asking... I'm going to be running the radiator pipes around the permitter of the room....did you have to deal with that in your install? Im assuming you'd just leave a gap at the edge of the insulation to fasten the pipes to the actual floor, with some brackets to support the OSB?

I suppose I could do that, but just a question.... Ive already installed a stud wall all the way around. Supporting the base of the stud wall are treated timber joists. Would be be acceptable to concrete up to these?

Thank you. Yes it is a solid concrete floor. So you mean to put the insulation down, then OSB ?

Thats what my question is.... but specifically if the timber Im proposing to use is suitable, and if I should shim up, or cut down in order to achieve a level.

Hi guys I'm currently converting an old outbuilding into a usable room. The room has a step and I'd like to bring the floor level and get some 50mm insulation boards installed. The room is 6m x 5m, with the step roughly at the middle, around 15cm. I was thinking of using c16 45 x 195mm, with...

If the electric blinds is on the window, which is recessed 500mm deep, and the plug is down the wall, I dont really want a plug wire running across the cill and down the wall.

Awesome thank you..

Thank you for some of the awesome advice above! Great appreciated. I have, I think just one last question. If I want to avoid plugging things into sockets, which will be perminantly in situe, is it acceptable to detach the devices plug, and instead wire it to a 13amp fixed spur, but swapping...

Stop tap, under plasterboard charging points, gas stop tap....all need access panels.

Thanks....its a really good point. I wont be hiding anything behind a stud wall that isnt accessible.... I am going to have to have some access pannels. THESE are the junctions in place at the moment whilst the room is being done....are these considered maintainance free?

Its not really the sockets Im trying to hide so much as the cables. Be daft to have a room at the stud walling stage and not think about ways to position the sockets and the cables if there are options out there to make it astehtically better.