Search results

Hah good point. Though the socket is round the side of the house behind a locked gate and the light would be at the front, so I’d need to run some lengthy cable.

Hi, I have a outdoor socket which was installed by my house builder. I’m looking to install an outdoor security light. Maybe a silly question, but is it OK to use that socket permanently to plug/power the security light? It would save me from having run a separate feed from somewhere. Thanks.

Thank you, so I’m good to go? Having pulled the fused switch spur open on the other side of the wall, there are more wires than I was expecting! So I may be back with a quick wiring question! Thank you again.

Sorry if I’m being thick, but you’re saying that the regs say I shouldn’t have the flex outlet with connections in it in Zone 2? If so, then the other bathroom (the last pic I posted above) is also breaking the rules right?

Many thanks EFLI, really appreciate it. So it’s no problem that the flex outlet does have the connections inside? I also checked the other bathroom and same thing - see pic. That flex outlet is less than 60cm from the edge of the bath (where that shampoo bottle is) and it does have connections...

In a straight line from the plug hole (the shower head is directly above the plug hole), the flex outlet is about 180cm away including 60cm from the edge of the shower to the flex. See pic (not to scale). But the flex outlet is still being used as a connector, is this a problem given my diagram?

I popped open the white flex outlet and it HAS been used as a connector and it is less than 60cm to the edge of the shower. Annoyingly the flex is not long enough to pass through the wall to the fused spur switch. Do I have any other options other than to call the house builder to sort it?

Otherwise I guess I replace the fused spur switch on the outside of the bathroom with this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/greenbrook-t205-scr-kingshield-7-day-fused-digital-timer-spur-switch-230v/7643G

Thank you very much for the help. It’s not intentionally a wet room and the element is bang on 60cm from the edge of the shower (see pic). If I added the timer I wanted then it’s size would eat into the 60cm so would not work. LearningSpark suggested this earlier in the thread...

Ah yes, I had assumed the flex outlet to be used as the connection but of course the the cable may well just pass through the wall from the fused connector, I’ll check tomorrow. If it is, is it allowed to replace the element with one that I can use this timer with...

Thanks Rocky. Including another pic which hopefully shows the setup a bit better. There isn’t a basin as such as you can see. That white panel on the wall with the cable coming out is approximately 40cm from the edge of the shower floor/step which you can see in the pic. What I don’t know is...

Hi, I have found a well priced timer and element for my towel heater. https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/search-results/Terma?pageNumber=4 The existing element says 150W on it. The news ones I’ve found seem to come in 120W or 200W, am I better going higher or lower than the current element...

Thanks, will give that a try. On both manifolds is a pink sheet left by the installer where they’ve written flow rates anywhere between 1.9 and 0.5. Unless there’s another problem, these flow rates are clearly not enough and the date on the sheet is 10th Oct 2016 - would it have made a...

It’s normally on 2am to 10pm so almost 24 hours. Tweaking the flow for one of the downstairs rooms has brought it up to 20 degrees for the first time since the weather cooled.

Just checked and upstairs there is only one loop calling for heat. Earlier this morning when I posted the temp pic, several loops were calling for heat, could it be that the temp drops when it’s under greater demand?

Ah I see. Just taken a pic of the gauge on the upstairs manifold and it’s running at closer to 50 now (some loops are calling the boiler). The downstairs manifold is in the second pic below running at 35 (no loops currently calling the boiler).

Yes the boiler gets up to a high temp. As do the top rails on the upstairs and downstairs manifolds.

I don’t have a thermometer to check, but to the touch, the flow out and the return are definitely different temperatures. I’ve tweaked the flows a bit on some of the loops to increase the flow to see if it makes a difference. The landing is very open with a floor to roof open void so that’s...

Limestone in the kitchen, bathrooms and hallway. Engineered wood in the living room and dining room. Carpets in the bedrooms.

I should say that the house is 2 years old and there are two other identical houses with the same spec, who don’t have this issue. So I suspect that it’s just config/settings that need tweaked. For sure, there have been plenty of other snags!